Any Ideas On Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Removal?
This evening I've been trying to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt but it is on really tight. I am exerting in excess of 300ft-lbs of torque on it and snapped the head off my 20 inch
1/2" drive breaker bar (johnson wrench) and it just won't budge. Am I missing something here? Please don't tell me that I'm turning the bolt the wrong way, it better be counterclockwise (as per usual) to loosen it. I've used penetrating oil to no avail. The factory only calls for 180ft-lbs and I am really concerned in snapping the head off the bolt if I am exerting more torque.
Anyone else encounter the same problem? I guess I am just going to get either a t-bar and get the longest handle I possibly can. I can see the shaft of the pulley holder flex as I am trying to loosen the bolt.
Any suggestions or ideas will be gratefully appreciated. Thanks!
1/2" drive breaker bar (johnson wrench) and it just won't budge. Am I missing something here? Please don't tell me that I'm turning the bolt the wrong way, it better be counterclockwise (as per usual) to loosen it. I've used penetrating oil to no avail. The factory only calls for 180ft-lbs and I am really concerned in snapping the head off the bolt if I am exerting more torque.
Anyone else encounter the same problem? I guess I am just going to get either a t-bar and get the longest handle I possibly can. I can see the shaft of the pulley holder flex as I am trying to loosen the bolt.
Any suggestions or ideas will be gratefully appreciated. Thanks!
Justin, the better question is what are you doing up (Oh, I guess you're so excited about the SC that you can't sleep, I know exactly where you're coming from
)
The tool I made to hold the pulley went up against something under the hood so that I didn't need to hold it, then I used a 1/2" drive socket with my jack handle (or old M/C fork tube, can't remember which, both items loiter my garage) as a 3
)The tool I made to hold the pulley went up against something under the hood so that I didn't need to hold it, then I used a 1/2" drive socket with my jack handle (or old M/C fork tube, can't remember which, both items loiter my garage) as a 3
Oh yeah, the crank pulley....
My mechanic had a tough time loosening up also.
I thought he would give-up but just as I thought he would give up, he was able to get it out.
I am sure you will turn it out eventually. Don't give up, keep on trying.
RT is right about the fuel pump, that step is another time eater.
My mechanic did the hard way but at the time I didn't feel that accessing from trunk area was possible. Hmm, I guess I was wrong since several known members did it that way.
It sure wasn't fun going through back panel behind the seat.
My mechanic had a tough time loosening up also.
I thought he would give-up but just as I thought he would give up, he was able to get it out.
I am sure you will turn it out eventually. Don't give up, keep on trying.
RT is right about the fuel pump, that step is another time eater.
My mechanic did the hard way but at the time I didn't feel that accessing from trunk area was possible. Hmm, I guess I was wrong since several known members did it that way.
It sure wasn't fun going through back panel behind the seat.
CCW is right? I know it's right on Hondas that spin the "wrong" way, and it's CW on my truck that spins the "right" way.
The way I've gotten it before is with a HEFTY 3/4 drive T-bar. It's an 18" bar with a "captive" head on it, looks like a breaker but t-shaped instead of a long handle. Believe it or not, it worked better for me than a 20" breaker, I think because with the sliding T it doesn't flex as much as a breaker.
The key is to remove all the flex you can. Get rid of as many extansions and adapters as you can and go with the largest socket you can (like 3/4). I used the 3/4 bar, a 3/4 extension, and a 3/4 to half adapter. Didn't take much to twist out the bolt that way.
The alternative is to cheat.
You'd be surprised how many jack handles are shaped just PERFECTLY to slip over a 20" breaker!
Just watch that paint, for when you slip (it always happens!).
The way I've gotten it before is with a HEFTY 3/4 drive T-bar. It's an 18" bar with a "captive" head on it, looks like a breaker but t-shaped instead of a long handle. Believe it or not, it worked better for me than a 20" breaker, I think because with the sliding T it doesn't flex as much as a breaker.
The key is to remove all the flex you can. Get rid of as many extansions and adapters as you can and go with the largest socket you can (like 3/4). I used the 3/4 bar, a 3/4 extension, and a 3/4 to half adapter. Didn't take much to twist out the bolt that way.
The alternative is to cheat.
You'd be surprised how many jack handles are shaped just PERFECTLY to slip over a 20" breaker!Just watch that paint, for when you slip (it always happens!).
Find a Honda dealer and ask about talking to one of their mechanics. The mechanics usually own their own tools and if someone does lots of Honda work they will have the "tool". Comptech has the tool at their Sacramento location. Also, do a search for Honda Tools and you will find a couple on the net ($80+). Some use air wrenches but that is highly recommended against by Honda...even though I've heard of dealers doing it that way. The instructions say not to use air wrench. That's the only hard part of the install. Next hardest is replacing the fuel pump. Other than that it's a piece of cake. I chose to have mine done just because of the pulley issue.
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