Tough is freakin' right! I think it is necessary to NOT disconnect the battery

 

Thanks, that's what I figured but on the instructions on the compression tester. I remember it specifically stating to disconnect the battery. Maybe that is for a non fuel injected car?


Wait maybe I am thinking fuel pump?

 

It might be a good idea to pull the fuse or relay for the fuel pump, but I haven't ever done that.

 

Well, it's a little embarrassing, but it appears my guage is (alot) inaccurate. I guess since the time I last used it, it got damaged. Aside from publicly looking like a putz, it's quite a relief. Surely, there would have been some other evidence of a problem if my comp readings were correct. Like running like crap, for example.
The dealers readings were:

#1 225
#2 235
#3 235
#4 225

2 & 3 look to have a little higher than "nominal".

BTW, to answer the other 2 questions asked...no mods and I don't lose oil. I lost a half a quart during the break-in period, and none since, and I'm not complaining!

Thanks Guys!

 

COMMPRESSION READINGS

Number 1 Cylinder

 

Phil, Glad that was an easy fix. You had me worried. I was fixing to go check mine, but now I guess I will wait.

 

I'm relieved myself. Every time I read for a while on this board, I see "engine failure this and differential exploded that" and Honda not wanting to stand behind their product. Then I think about my "warranty" running out next May, if they'd even cover a major problem to begin with.
I guess I should just be glad to not really have any problems and stop worrying.

 

Phil, glad to hear all is well. Just relax and enjoy the car! It's almost that time of the year! WOOHOO!

 

Could someone explain what a "leak down test" is? I have been hearing this term for quite some time, and I know that it is a more relevant test than a compression test, but I have no idea why?

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by gernby
[B]Could someone explain what a "leak down test" is?