Ap1 Needs saving! Low Compression
Yes if you have not looked at the cylinder walls how would you know that you would need a new block? So why quote one?
With all this back and fourth you could have taken the heads off by now. If you have a place to work and tools You could inspect this yourself. Take your time take pictures lay things out neatly on a clean surface take notes. Sounds to me you want to do this and your more than able. Heads have to come off for that supposed bad valve anyway.
My money is on you. I am also betting your block is ok. Good luck!
With all this back and fourth you could have taken the heads off by now. If you have a place to work and tools You could inspect this yourself. Take your time take pictures lay things out neatly on a clean surface take notes. Sounds to me you want to do this and your more than able. Heads have to come off for that supposed bad valve anyway.
My money is on you. I am also betting your block is ok. Good luck!
Downloaded the Helms manual online, the first page of the book is a busty woman. Anyways what pages does the head removal start and finish? I was looking at 6.25-6.30, can someone confirm that the procedures is only 5 pages long? How difficult is this job and what list of tools do I need for the job?
Is it possible to determine the condition of the piston rings with a leakdown test?
Is it possible to determine the condition of the piston rings with a leakdown test?
Sent the car to another shop, they said that the dealership completely messed up their diagnostic. Said compression was 195 in all cylinders and stated that the problem was in the injectors control module. Does anyone have experience with this?
They quoted me 477 dollars to fix the problem, I need to call them tomorrow to get all of the details on their diagnostic. They specifically said its the injector control module, and the part is around 300$. God damn it, I got two opinions, now I dont even know if the compression test results are true
Find a local S2000 owner who is competent. Post up in your local forum and ask for help. Usually offering some beer and pizza for someone with the tools to come help you will work.
If you were local to me (Tennessee) I'd be willing to help you out, but you're just a little ways away from me.
They quoted me 477 dollars to fix the problem, I need to call them tomorrow to get all of the details on their diagnostic. They specifically said its the injector control module, and the part is around 300$. God damn it, I got two opinions, now I dont even know if the compression test results are true
This was one of the factors that drove me to start wrenching.
Well I'm not going back to the transmission shop who suggested that the car needed an "injector control modulator". That guy was totally incompetent, he actually said that it is impossible to over-rev the engine causing a valve to bend, that the rev-limiter would not allow that to happen. After hearing this statement, I should of just walked away. At least they performed a free compression test, and declined the dealership's diagnostic.
After I got the car back, I took it to pep-boys for a third diagnostic. The mechanic right away told me that my tensioner pulley is making a ticking noise and that I should have the pulley replaced. So I bought the part and the noise went away. After he asked me if I had tried a map-whack, I was surprised and said no, he said to do that when I got home. Than we ran a bottle of sea-foam into the vacuum lines. The CEL light has been off all day today, if it comes back on they said to bring it in so they can get a fuel trim reading. Possibly swap injectors and coils with another s2000. I was just surprised that the mechanic was knowledgeable about the car. He even pulled up a thread on s2ki to do research.
The guy drives an Hella flush Honda civic, so I guess he's a Honda fan. Even knew that it was an Ap1 (I guess I shouldn't be to impressed) but the mechanic at pep-boys takes the cake. So far I have:
Cleaned the throttle body
Cleaned the map, performed a map-whack, and zip tied it down
Changed spark-plugs
Did a valve adjustment
and ran sea foam through
If the lights come on again, ill take it to get a fuel trim reading and post up the numbers here.
After I got the car back, I took it to pep-boys for a third diagnostic. The mechanic right away told me that my tensioner pulley is making a ticking noise and that I should have the pulley replaced. So I bought the part and the noise went away. After he asked me if I had tried a map-whack, I was surprised and said no, he said to do that when I got home. Than we ran a bottle of sea-foam into the vacuum lines. The CEL light has been off all day today, if it comes back on they said to bring it in so they can get a fuel trim reading. Possibly swap injectors and coils with another s2000. I was just surprised that the mechanic was knowledgeable about the car. He even pulled up a thread on s2ki to do research.
Cleaned the throttle body
Cleaned the map, performed a map-whack, and zip tied it down
Changed spark-plugs
Did a valve adjustment
and ran sea foam through
If the lights come on again, ill take it to get a fuel trim reading and post up the numbers here.
This is precisely why I had made the statement:
Dealerships will just make up issues to make the most money off of you without actually doing a real diagnostic. Technically replacing the whole motor would have "fixed" your issue. But chances are is it's something much less than bad compression. Hopefully your light will stay off for awhile or stay off all together. If I were to bet, you probably have an injector that's sticking or partially clogged. Sending all 4 off to be serviced and cleaned might not be a bad idea. This way you could completely eliminate them if the light ever comes back. Service really isn't that expensive either (about $15-20 per injector) and turnaround is usually very quick.
Good luck and keep this thread updated.
Dealerships will just make up issues to make the most money off of you without actually doing a real diagnostic. Technically replacing the whole motor would have "fixed" your issue. But chances are is it's something much less than bad compression. Hopefully your light will stay off for awhile or stay off all together. If I were to bet, you probably have an injector that's sticking or partially clogged. Sending all 4 off to be serviced and cleaned might not be a bad idea. This way you could completely eliminate them if the light ever comes back. Service really isn't that expensive either (about $15-20 per injector) and turnaround is usually very quick.
Good luck and keep this thread updated.


