AP1 running rough, HELP
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Don't go to honda. 650 is astronomical. You can pick up a tool just for the f22 head on ebay for 70 bucks that makes retainer swap a breeze. It doesn't take very long at all with the proper tool and a little know how. I would absolutely never take my car to a dealer for service. Nothing but kids with no experience. Real mechanics won't set foot in a dealership. Search around for a good local shop with import experience. There's plenty of them around. While this is not a difficult job, it does require a bit of finese and know how. If your gonna do it yourself, take your time. You can destroy the engine if one of the valves drops, so make sure its right before you attempt to crank it.
could you post a link to the tool you spoke about from ebay? i see you say its for f22 head, would it help me upgrade from ap1 to ap2 retainers?
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Considering buying this to pressurize the cylinders, for 11$ i might as well:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-19700-Op...gy_auto_text_b
Wondering what type of spring compressor would be better:
1. http://www.amazon.com/KD-2078-Univer...=pd_sbs_auto_4
2. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-36200-Ke.../dp/B000P0ZJIS
Let me know what you guys think about these buys.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-19700-Op...gy_auto_text_b
Wondering what type of spring compressor would be better:
1. http://www.amazon.com/KD-2078-Univer...=pd_sbs_auto_4
2. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-36200-Ke.../dp/B000P0ZJIS
Let me know what you guys think about these buys.
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I noticed that you did not post in your local area section for recommendations for mechanics. Although New Orleans is not exactly close, I took the liberty of posting for you. Hope you don't mind.
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/953...#entry21724774
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/953...#entry21724774
Sent Gorilla Engineering multiple messages on Facebook, no replies. :/
Looking to just tackle this by myself at this point.
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OK guys I'm due for an oil change so I'm gonna get a bright and early start at the oil change, valve retainer check/swap and valve adjustment. Got my camera charging so I'll get some detailed pics of the process and post everything up. I know you guys are probably going to wonder why I have the tools and parts on hand for the AP2 retainer swap before I've even checked to see if they are cracked or not. I tend to be very busy so if I'm going to be doing a retainer check/valve adjustment, I might as well have the retainers/keepers and necessary tools on hand in case they do need changing. I'll avoid having to remove the valve cover and adjust valves again, plus the local Honda parts department told me it's cool to return the retainers/keepers if I do not need them. 
Gonna start with my parts/tools list and procedure, all input is happily welcomed.
Parts on hand:
(8) AP2 valve retainers...Part# 14765-PRB-A01
(16) AP2 keepers/cotters...Part# 14781-PCX-004
(1) Honda PCX oil filter...Part# 15400-PCX-004
(1) AP1 valve cover gasket set...Part# 12040-PCX-305
(6) Qts 10w30 Royal Purple motor oil
Tools on hand:
MY00-MY03 Helm Manual
Air compressor w/regulator gauge and spark plug attachment
Magnetic pickup tool w/ led tip
Torque wrench
5mm Hex wrench
Ratchet wrench
Metric sockets
5/8" spark plug socket tool
19mm box end wrench
Pliers
Needle-nose pliers
Flathead screwdriver
Shop Rags
Gloves
Feeler gauges
Flat head screw driver
6" socket extension
Overhead valve spring compressor and angle grinder for any needed modifications
Basic Procedure:
1.Car in gear/ E-brake taught
2.Jack up car
3.Remove drain plug
4.Disconnect necessary sensors from valve cover
5.Remove dipstick
6.Remove PVC hose and breather hose
7.Remove spark plug cover/coil packs
8.Remove harness clamps
9.Unscrew (5) valve cover bolts and remove valve cover
10.Clean valve cover/Install new gasket
11.Inspect retainers
If there are cracked retainers...
12.Modify spring retraction tool to fit into AP1 valve train
13.Replace oil drain bolt
14.Remove jack stands and lower car
15.Car in neutral
16.Turn crank to TDC cylinder 1
17.Remove cam caps and cams
18.Remove spark plug
19.Pressurize cylinder 1
20.Stuff clean rags into oiling holes
21.Compress spring/remove broken retainer and AP1 cotters
22.Reseat spring/AP2 retainers and cotters on valve stem
23.Depressurize cylinder/remove spark plug hose attachment
24.Replace spark plug
25.Turn crank 180 degrees clockwise
26.Pressurize cylinder
27.Repeat steps 21-26 on cylinder 3
28.Repeat steps 21-26 on cylinder 4
29.Repeat steps 21-26 on cylinder 2
30.Reinstall cam caps and cams per Helms instructions
If there are no cracked retainers/post retainer swap valve adjustment...
12/31.Turn crank to TDC cylinder 1
13/32.Inspect intake and exhaust valve clearance
14/33.Adjust any loose valves to Honda spec per Helms manual
15/34.Turn crank 180 degrees clockwise
16/35.Repeat steps 13/32 and 14/33 for cylinder 3
17/36.Repeat steps 13/32-15/34 for cylinder 4
18/37.Repeat steps 13/42-15/34 for cylinder 2
19/38.Reinstall valve cover(steps 4-9 in reverse)
20/39.Install new Honda oil filter
20/41.Add engine oil
21/42.Check engine oil level
22/43.Check tool list for any possibly forgotten tools
23/44.Cross fingers
24/55.Start car. SUCCESS! hopefully..
Please let me know if I forgot of anything, or any tips or tricks. Thanks guys! Will post back tomorrow!
Gonna start with my parts/tools list and procedure, all input is happily welcomed.
Parts on hand:
(8) AP2 valve retainers...Part# 14765-PRB-A01
(16) AP2 keepers/cotters...Part# 14781-PCX-004
(1) Honda PCX oil filter...Part# 15400-PCX-004
(1) AP1 valve cover gasket set...Part# 12040-PCX-305
(6) Qts 10w30 Royal Purple motor oil
Tools on hand:
MY00-MY03 Helm Manual
Air compressor w/regulator gauge and spark plug attachment
Magnetic pickup tool w/ led tip
Torque wrench
5mm Hex wrench
Ratchet wrench
Metric sockets
5/8" spark plug socket tool
19mm box end wrench
Pliers
Needle-nose pliers
Flathead screwdriver
Shop Rags
Gloves
Feeler gauges
Flat head screw driver
6" socket extension
Overhead valve spring compressor and angle grinder for any needed modifications
Basic Procedure:
1.Car in gear/ E-brake taught
2.Jack up car
3.Remove drain plug
4.Disconnect necessary sensors from valve cover
5.Remove dipstick
6.Remove PVC hose and breather hose
7.Remove spark plug cover/coil packs
8.Remove harness clamps
9.Unscrew (5) valve cover bolts and remove valve cover
10.Clean valve cover/Install new gasket
11.Inspect retainers
If there are cracked retainers...
12.Modify spring retraction tool to fit into AP1 valve train
13.Replace oil drain bolt
14.Remove jack stands and lower car
15.Car in neutral
16.Turn crank to TDC cylinder 1
17.Remove cam caps and cams
18.Remove spark plug
19.Pressurize cylinder 1
20.Stuff clean rags into oiling holes
21.Compress spring/remove broken retainer and AP1 cotters
22.Reseat spring/AP2 retainers and cotters on valve stem
23.Depressurize cylinder/remove spark plug hose attachment
24.Replace spark plug
25.Turn crank 180 degrees clockwise
26.Pressurize cylinder
27.Repeat steps 21-26 on cylinder 3
28.Repeat steps 21-26 on cylinder 4
29.Repeat steps 21-26 on cylinder 2
30.Reinstall cam caps and cams per Helms instructions
If there are no cracked retainers/post retainer swap valve adjustment...
12/31.Turn crank to TDC cylinder 1
13/32.Inspect intake and exhaust valve clearance
14/33.Adjust any loose valves to Honda spec per Helms manual
15/34.Turn crank 180 degrees clockwise
16/35.Repeat steps 13/32 and 14/33 for cylinder 3
17/36.Repeat steps 13/32-15/34 for cylinder 4
18/37.Repeat steps 13/42-15/34 for cylinder 2
19/38.Reinstall valve cover(steps 4-9 in reverse)
20/39.Install new Honda oil filter
20/41.Add engine oil
21/42.Check engine oil level
22/43.Check tool list for any possibly forgotten tools
23/44.Cross fingers
24/55.Start car. SUCCESS! hopefully..
Please let me know if I forgot of anything, or any tips or tricks. Thanks guys! Will post back tomorrow!
Thread Starter
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ALRIGHT guys...
Spent my Sunday in the valvetrain of the S, all retainers were A-OK and all valves were near spec but I tightened them a little for reassurance. The slight tightening of the valves seems to have helped alot with the clattering noises I had and my exhaust note sounds much better than it did pre-adjustment. VTEC seems slightly less pronounced but I read somewhere adjusting valves to one spec will help with valve noise yet sacrifice power some, and another spec will add some valve clatter but also add a little performance. Seems that I adjusted more toward the 'quiet' side, correct me if im wrong.
Nice to know that my valvetrain is fine, BUT the main power loss and shaking problem are still obviously there.
So, I'll get the coil packs tested and I'll tie of the lambda sensor pre-cat to see if its a clogged cat. Besides that I'm worried about a bearing problem as JFUSION said. Any input would be GREATLY appreciated.
Spent my Sunday in the valvetrain of the S, all retainers were A-OK and all valves were near spec but I tightened them a little for reassurance. The slight tightening of the valves seems to have helped alot with the clattering noises I had and my exhaust note sounds much better than it did pre-adjustment. VTEC seems slightly less pronounced but I read somewhere adjusting valves to one spec will help with valve noise yet sacrifice power some, and another spec will add some valve clatter but also add a little performance. Seems that I adjusted more toward the 'quiet' side, correct me if im wrong.
Nice to know that my valvetrain is fine, BUT the main power loss and shaking problem are still obviously there.
So, I'll get the coil packs tested and I'll tie of the lambda sensor pre-cat to see if its a clogged cat. Besides that I'm worried about a bearing problem as JFUSION said. Any input would be GREATLY appreciated.
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,689
Likes: 21
ALRIGHT guys...
Spent my Sunday in the valvetrain of the S, all retainers were A-OK and all valves were near spec but I tightened them a little for reassurance. The slight tightening of the valves seems to have helped alot with the clattering noises I had and my exhaust note sounds much better than it did pre-adjustment. VTEC seems slightly less pronounced but I read somewhere adjusting valves to one spec will help with valve noise yet sacrifice power some, and another spec will add some valve clatter but also add a little performance. Seems that I adjusted more toward the 'quiet' side, correct me if im wrong.
Nice to know that my valvetrain is fine, BUT the main power loss and shaking problem are still obviously there.
So, I'll get the coil packs tested and I'll tie of the lambda sensor pre-cat to see if its a clogged cat. Besides that I'm worried about a bearing problem as JFUSION said. Any input would be GREATLY appreciated.
Spent my Sunday in the valvetrain of the S, all retainers were A-OK and all valves were near spec but I tightened them a little for reassurance. The slight tightening of the valves seems to have helped alot with the clattering noises I had and my exhaust note sounds much better than it did pre-adjustment. VTEC seems slightly less pronounced but I read somewhere adjusting valves to one spec will help with valve noise yet sacrifice power some, and another spec will add some valve clatter but also add a little performance. Seems that I adjusted more toward the 'quiet' side, correct me if im wrong.
Nice to know that my valvetrain is fine, BUT the main power loss and shaking problem are still obviously there.
So, I'll get the coil packs tested and I'll tie of the lambda sensor pre-cat to see if its a clogged cat. Besides that I'm worried about a bearing problem as JFUSION said. Any input would be GREATLY appreciated.
Did you check out the link for the mechanic I menionted to you?
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Originally Posted by LAp1' timestamp='1338902974' post='21755264
ALRIGHT guys...
Spent my Sunday in the valvetrain of the S, all retainers were A-OK and all valves were near spec but I tightened them a little for reassurance. The slight tightening of the valves seems to have helped alot with the clattering noises I had and my exhaust note sounds much better than it did pre-adjustment. VTEC seems slightly less pronounced but I read somewhere adjusting valves to one spec will help with valve noise yet sacrifice power some, and another spec will add some valve clatter but also add a little performance. Seems that I adjusted more toward the 'quiet' side, correct me if im wrong.
Nice to know that my valvetrain is fine, BUT the main power loss and shaking problem are still obviously there.
So, I'll get the coil packs tested and I'll tie of the lambda sensor pre-cat to see if its a clogged cat. Besides that I'm worried about a bearing problem as JFUSION said. Any input would be GREATLY appreciated.
Spent my Sunday in the valvetrain of the S, all retainers were A-OK and all valves were near spec but I tightened them a little for reassurance. The slight tightening of the valves seems to have helped alot with the clattering noises I had and my exhaust note sounds much better than it did pre-adjustment. VTEC seems slightly less pronounced but I read somewhere adjusting valves to one spec will help with valve noise yet sacrifice power some, and another spec will add some valve clatter but also add a little performance. Seems that I adjusted more toward the 'quiet' side, correct me if im wrong.
Nice to know that my valvetrain is fine, BUT the main power loss and shaking problem are still obviously there.
So, I'll get the coil packs tested and I'll tie of the lambda sensor pre-cat to see if its a clogged cat. Besides that I'm worried about a bearing problem as JFUSION said. Any input would be GREATLY appreciated.
Did you check out the link for the mechanic I menionted to you?
agreed, HUGE bummer.
and yes I did contact Gorilla, they never got back with me.
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,689
Likes: 21
No offense, but Facebook would be the last way I would try to contact them. Just because they have a Facebook page doesn't mean they monitor it, or even know how to use it.
They are a community organizer for this forum and are active in posting, I'd suggest you PM them, or better yet, call them.
Gorilla Race Engineering
1310 26th Street., Kenner, LA 70062
504.952.2936 shop
They are a community organizer for this forum and are active in posting, I'd suggest you PM them, or better yet, call them.
Gorilla Race Engineering
1310 26th Street., Kenner, LA 70062
504.952.2936 shop