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Once the nut is torque down close to what you think is right put the inch pound tq wrench on and take a reading
In this pic you see both types of torque wrench, a wand type (inch pound) and a dial and click type
This is how to measure the turning force of the flange
Here is a reading of 9 inch pounds
Here are some other tools we made to do the job with
The small lollypop is a spanner wrench and the tall one is what we use to hold the flange in place when torque setting the nut.
Ohhhhhh.. so when you say the turning force.. you mean the rotation force!????
I GOT YA... shiiiit, so... if it reads 9in-lbs before the flange swap, and i install the new flange and re-torque the nut down to around 90ish ft-lbs.. i then check the turning force (rotation force) of the flange with the in-lbs torque wrench and adjust the pinion nut torque accordingly until it reaches the desired 9in-lbs again???
K, got it.. lmao, i was confused..
I'm a mechanical engineer for god-sake, and sometimes, I'm just stuck with the terminology or vocabulary that i'm used to or was taught on... lol. Simple... easier said than done.. thanks Ben!!!!!
I swear, i'm definitely coming down to Tampa this summer and buying you a couple drinks bud.
Originally Posted by tylorweaver,Mar 3 2008, 01:14 AM
Ohhhhhh.. so when you say the turning force.. you mean the rotation force!????
I GOT YA... shiiiit, so... if it reads 9in-lbs before the flange swap, and i install the new flange and re-torque the nut down to around 90ish ft-lbs.. i then check the turning force (rotation force) of the flange with the in-lbs torque wrench and adjust the pinion nut torque accordingly until it reaches the desired 9in-lbs again???
K, got it.. lmao, i was confused..
I'm a mechanical engineer for god-sake, and sometimes, I'm just stuck with the terminology or vocabulary that i'm used to or was taught on... lol. Simple... easier said than done.. thanks Ben!!!!!
I swear, i'm definitely coming down to Tampa this summer and buying you a couple drinks bud.
-Tylor
I will take a Buck Star coffee, thanks
If you get 9 inch pounds first before you remove the flange..... When you reinstall bump it up to 10 or 12 inch pounds, this will assure that the crush sleeve is reset
Remember 12 is max
Already took note of that So I think I will be good to go now.. I am COMPLETELY comfortable now doing this, hahahaha.. damn, I feel so retarded now... you know, if I had asking you these questions during the work week, I would have understood your replies right that second... lol, being that I look forward to my weekends to just completely let everything work/office-related out of my head.... i just wasn't thinking. lol
Thanks again incredibly much... I say that this should be referenced or stickied somewhere for the diff swap somewhere in this section.. A+ Ben and SlowS2K!!!!
Thanks!
oh, and..
aye aye captain!!!!!
some delicious coffee will definitely be taken care of for ya
i'm getting ready to install an ap2 diff into my ap1 s2k and i'm running into the same dilemma. would it be easier just to drill out the holes on the ap1 driveshaft and use the larger ap2 flange bolts.
never mind, i just looked underneath the car and it looks like drilling out the hole wont be as easy as just swapping the ap1 flange over to the ap2 diff.