What do you mean they didn't move at all. Did you pull the axles completely to do the swap? or did you leave them in the car?

 

Sorry i forgot to mention, yes i left them on.








took the buckets off cleaned them and swapped them. Picture of the buckets

Passenger

driverside




I drove it from the shop home, but thats not far, didn't exceed 25mph. I did drive it now, still vibration above 70mph. Not during accel though. Shafts still have play up and down like i mentioned earlier

any more suggestions? So there are no bearings that could be bad?

 

bump

 

Is this an intermittent clicking sound? I get an intermittent clicking from the same wheel. I noticed the same play you're talking about and the dealer replaced the left axle as well. I also torqued the axle nut but I still have the clicking. I don't get the vibration though.

Not really helpfull sorry.

Consider this a BUMP.

 

thanks. my car was a certified used car (at some point) they said some things are still under warranty, i doubt the axles are going to be something they'd warranty.
It's a single click. when changing driving directions. and only sometimes. I'm thinking it might be the clutch engaging. i cant say for sure that its a "click" and not a "clunk". ggggrrrrrrrrrrrr finding a damn problem before it's a problem is like a never ending story. i tempted to just leave it, until the darn thing breaks for sure.

 

Anybody else have some input? still getting the noise. I got offered a diff out of a 02, that was in a wreck and caught on fire !
Anyone think swapping diffs would do any good?

 

Its recommended to put some fresh EP grease behind the axle nut and on the thread to ensure the torque is going where it needs to go and is not "lost" in friction.
Removing the axle gives one the opportunity to inspect the axle and hub splines and put a some fresh EP grease there too.
If you find surface rust on the splines you may have your answer.

silencertk Posted on Feb 27 2007, 06:42 PM
What you could do on your "old"diff is drain the oil and pull out the output shafts.

(depending on how much oil is in there you may not even need to drain)
Then measure the diameter where the output shaft rotates in the Torsen housing.
That's here:

If you find that the diameter is considerably smaller then on adjacent parts of the output shaft or if that part is grooved you may have a worn output shaft.
That MAY (!) cause vibration as a part of the complete axle (from diff to wheel) is less supported.

Besides all this: your rear wheels are properly balanced right?
No aftermarket wheels with the wrong kind of lugs?
Just asking.

 

?! dunno. yes aftermarket wheels, sterns. mmhh and i'm not entirely sure what would make the lugs wrong. I'm no expert so i'm open for all solutions. If someone wouldnt mind, explain what lugs i should/could be using. But i can't deny that the vibration stuff started shortly after installing the wheels a couple of months ago.
i guess i'll take the diff apart this weekend...

 

silencertk Posted on Feb 27 2007, 10:28 PM
If you are using the lugs that came with the wheels there should be no problem.
The OEM lugs are "ball" tapered, there are cone shaped ones too (probably more shapes) and should not be mixed.
IOW, on a "ball" tapered wheel you should use "ball" tapered lugs.
(like the OEM wheels and lugs)

Are you also sure the centring hole on the wheels match the centering "ring" on the hub?
Its not bad if there are bigger holes in the wheels (just be very precise in torquing the lugs down in small steps and use the proper criss-cross tightning pattern).
If the centring hole in the wheel is only slightly smaller then the ring on the hub you would not be able to mount the wheel properly against the hub and may be a cause of vibration.
You'll see some damage on the wheel (where its forced over the hub ring) if that is the case.

The diamter of the rear hub ring is 64 mm.
(Thats also why the rear wheels dont fit at the front as the front hub ring is 70 mm)

I dont think any of this will cause "clicking" though.
Thats axle nut / splines IMO.

Let us know what you find.

 

ok, i'm using the tappered lugs, and no hubcentric ring. but as you said, i krisskross pattern tighten them.
When driving today, it almost felt like the rear end was "shifting" upon receiving torque. I don't know how to describe it, it felt loose everytime i shifted gears under load.
Make any sense?