Chuck S

The mess of wiring shown in this partial view of a Viper alarm install is truly frightening!


And there's a thread here on another Viper that may help.

-- Chuck

Say Chi Sin Lo

Chiming in here.

When I first got the car back in late October, the battery died immediately after ~ 1 week of no operation. Didn't think too much of it as the previous owner didn't drive it much, even though the battery was relatively new. Thought it was a starter issue until the the tow truck jump started it back to life. Went and got a new battery instead.

Fast forward a few months, I just got back from a 2weeks vacation, new battery died AGAIN. There is for sure a parasitic draw in my car, and I suspect it to be the alarm installed by the previous owner.

Anyways, I'm going into an alarm shop this Friday, they'll check if the existing alarm is drawing too much power. Now the debate is:
- Replace the alarm?
- Remove it altogether?
*Car is parked outside, in a relatively safe and boring San Francisco neighborhood. Although, S2000 is a hot commodity among thieves*

Chuck S

Your options suck, but you know this.

Relatively safe and boring vs relatively unsafe and boring may be a fine line. A mere alarm (which no one but you would pay any attention to) ain't much help. Tracking hardware may help in recovery after it's stolen. Looks like after a week you have neither the OE alarm nor the aftermarket. All I can think of is a second battery.

-- Chuck

engifineer

Do not buy batteries from walmart. for one thing, but that is not what is causing your issue most likely :P

If the battery read 2V, it is garbage now for sure.

If you have a voltmeter, does it have a current setting? If so, set it up for that (put it on the 10A side if it has that in case you open a door and any lights come on during the process). Disconnect a battery lead (either one will work) and connect one end of the meter to the lead and one to the battery post. You will want to then wait a few minutes since the ECU will boot and do some stuff. After that, see what kind of reading you get. Start on the high high scale on the meter and then drop down so you get an accurate reading. You can then use this process to eliminate things. For example, if you pull the alarm fuse, and it drops to normal draw, then it is likely the alarm. Make sure all doors are closed and everything is in the normal state when the car is parked.

If you are reading upwards of 100mA, then I would call that a high parasitic load. I am guessing the S2k draws more like 30mA or so since it is not new and chock full of all the things that make newer cars draw more. But in any case, you can use this method to help tell you what is drawing the current when the car is off.

Mine does not have an alarm on it, but I can let it sit for a month or two and not have issues with it not starting.