boost to n/a = unstable idle
#1
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boost to n/a = unstable idle
my friend and i took the turbo and 3mm headgasket off the car in the past few weeks and reassembled with OEM parts which include oem headgasket, injectors, exhaust manifold gasket etc. upon completion, we reset the stock ecu by cranking it up, keeping it at 3k rpm for a few minutes until the fan kick-in procedure, pulled the #25 fuse for 60 seconds and it threw an EPS light.
the car starts rough - the car would shake a good bit, rpm very low (5-600ish), inconsistent. give it a nice firm press on the gas pedal and the rpm builds up as normal. if i let off the pedal slowly, it'll catch its idle point at around 900-1000ish rpm and idle perfectly fine - it sounds normal. if i stomp/mash on the pedal, the rpm drops a few hundred and kicks up high. there's a huge delay in the response time from when i hit the pedal and the rpm reacts and as soon as i let off the pedal rpm drops all the way to 0 and shuts down.
we decided to drive it around the neighborhood to see if the ECU would relearn itself while it's running. during this grandma style test drive, the car would drive fine, but all of sudden it boggled regardless of how much pressure was applied to the pedal. eventually, it got to the point where the rpm was so low that releasing the clutch slightly in first gear wouldn't even move the car. the car naturally shut itself down. i got out and checked for any leaks and find nothing. started the car and the same symptoms i mentioned in the first paragraph is still present. first gear and it's moving. it threw a CEL light while driving so we'll have to see what that is. the car might have 'modified' (very broad, no clue how it's modified if it is) cams. bought the car with these cams already in it...they didn't seem to be 'modified' so we kept it in there. the only part that's NON-OEM on my car right now is the walboro fuel pump.
i think this is all the symptoms that i can remember. any suggestions on what we should try or re-check? all the engine internals were tightened down as noted on the HELMs manual. any thoughts or inputs greatly appreciated
the car starts rough - the car would shake a good bit, rpm very low (5-600ish), inconsistent. give it a nice firm press on the gas pedal and the rpm builds up as normal. if i let off the pedal slowly, it'll catch its idle point at around 900-1000ish rpm and idle perfectly fine - it sounds normal. if i stomp/mash on the pedal, the rpm drops a few hundred and kicks up high. there's a huge delay in the response time from when i hit the pedal and the rpm reacts and as soon as i let off the pedal rpm drops all the way to 0 and shuts down.
we decided to drive it around the neighborhood to see if the ECU would relearn itself while it's running. during this grandma style test drive, the car would drive fine, but all of sudden it boggled regardless of how much pressure was applied to the pedal. eventually, it got to the point where the rpm was so low that releasing the clutch slightly in first gear wouldn't even move the car. the car naturally shut itself down. i got out and checked for any leaks and find nothing. started the car and the same symptoms i mentioned in the first paragraph is still present. first gear and it's moving. it threw a CEL light while driving so we'll have to see what that is. the car might have 'modified' (very broad, no clue how it's modified if it is) cams. bought the car with these cams already in it...they didn't seem to be 'modified' so we kept it in there. the only part that's NON-OEM on my car right now is the walboro fuel pump.
i think this is all the symptoms that i can remember. any suggestions on what we should try or re-check? all the engine internals were tightened down as noted on the HELMs manual. any thoughts or inputs greatly appreciated
#3
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Originally Posted by Enthralled,Apr 30 2008, 11:43 AM
what type of plugs are you running?
#4
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We checked the timing and its now running between 3 and 8 degrees retarded (assuming I hooked the timing light up correctly) at idle (which was in the realm of 1100 rpm). I'm fairly certain that I got the cam idler gear set back to 0 from being adjusted to compenstate for the thicker head gasket, so the real question is whether or not the ECU will retard the timing that much to compensate for the "modified" cams (we have no info on these cams other than the mod sheet for the car had "modified cams" on it; they don't look like regrinds to me.....)
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