Brake Fluid
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 391
Likes: 1
From: San Jose
Originally Posted by copmagnet82,Aug 11 2005, 11:16 PM
i tired superblue and i tried Motul and im sold on the Motul, this is really good stuff especially if you couple it with some decent pads like cobalt specVRs, its a great road course combo
i wonder if i could tell a difference if i switched to the Castrol brake fluid
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 16,673
Likes: 1
From: Waterloo
RBF 600 Factory Line
100% synthetic fluid for hydraulic-actuated brake and clutch systems. Specifically designed to resist the high temperatures of actuated (steel or carbon) racing brakes and clutch systems.
EXTREME THERMAL RESISTANCE AND STABILITY: the elevated boiling point of RBF 600 FACTORY LINE (312
100% synthetic fluid for hydraulic-actuated brake and clutch systems. Specifically designed to resist the high temperatures of actuated (steel or carbon) racing brakes and clutch systems.
EXTREME THERMAL RESISTANCE AND STABILITY: the elevated boiling point of RBF 600 FACTORY LINE (312
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,063
Likes: 365
From: Redondo Beach
Lots of good info here.
Summary of the above (the way I read it):
Overarching tradeoff in brake fluids: boiling point versus longevity. DOT3 has lower boiling point, but greater longevity.
Conclusions:
1) Use DOT3 in your street-only car since a) it's cheap, b) even canyon runs won't stress the brakes, and c) you may as well not worry about flushing and bleeding. Replace fluid only when time to change pads.
2) If you track the car regularly, use a DOT4, flushing/bleeding as needed (i.e. when you start experiencing a soft pedal).
3) For a combination of street and track, use a DOT4, with the awareness that you'll have to flush/bleed periodically.
Alternately, my recommendedation for the rich and/or lazy track hound:
Just buy a bottle of Castrol SRF and forget about it, no matter how hard you drive or how many track miles you put on the car.
Sure, it's steep at $70 per liter, but in my experience it never, ever, EVER boiled, in well over 2000 track miles on R-compound tires. It outlasted four sets of front rotors, two sets of rears, and God knows how many sets of full-race pads, and I never ONCE flushed or even BLED it. I only changed it after 18 months cause the bottle says not to leave it in any longer and I was kinda starting to feel guilty. It's really nice knowing you can always count on your fluid.
Summary of the above (the way I read it):
Overarching tradeoff in brake fluids: boiling point versus longevity. DOT3 has lower boiling point, but greater longevity.
Conclusions:
1) Use DOT3 in your street-only car since a) it's cheap, b) even canyon runs won't stress the brakes, and c) you may as well not worry about flushing and bleeding. Replace fluid only when time to change pads.
2) If you track the car regularly, use a DOT4, flushing/bleeding as needed (i.e. when you start experiencing a soft pedal).
3) For a combination of street and track, use a DOT4, with the awareness that you'll have to flush/bleed periodically.
Alternately, my recommendedation for the rich and/or lazy track hound:
Just buy a bottle of Castrol SRF and forget about it, no matter how hard you drive or how many track miles you put on the car.
Sure, it's steep at $70 per liter, but in my experience it never, ever, EVER boiled, in well over 2000 track miles on R-compound tires. It outlasted four sets of front rotors, two sets of rears, and God knows how many sets of full-race pads, and I never ONCE flushed or even BLED it. I only changed it after 18 months cause the bottle says not to leave it in any longer and I was kinda starting to feel guilty. It's really nice knowing you can always count on your fluid.
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