Brand new wheel bearing - Now a broken stud.
#1
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Brand new wheel bearing - Now a broken stud.
From general wear and tear (130k miles on the car), my wheel bearings went bad. I had them replaced and the shop that did the work over torqued the lug nuts. The locking nut I had on there broke it's contacts instead of coming off (it was ~200ft-lbs), so the shop ended up having to drill out the stud and replace it.
Since this was at their cost, it seems they decided to cheap out on it and put it a shitty stud. When I went to change the wheels, the nut was hard to come off. It was even harder to put back on. Then I tried to take it off again, and now nut and lug just spin without coming off. I assume the crappy stud they put in is stripped and needs to be replaced, again. Of course the idiots are refusing to take responsibility this time, blaming it on me , saying I cross threaded it when I was changing my wheels for racing No, not racing!! I must destroy lugs left and right autocrossing the car. Except for the 19 other OEMs that have lasted over 130k miles and dozens of wheel changes with no problems
My understanding is on this car the hub must be pressed out to replace the studs. Will I have to replace my almost new bearing again when this happens?
I'm trying to figure out how bad the shop is trying to screw me, and wether I should take their offer of doing the work "at cost" or take my business elsewhere.
Thanks in advance!
Since this was at their cost, it seems they decided to cheap out on it and put it a shitty stud. When I went to change the wheels, the nut was hard to come off. It was even harder to put back on. Then I tried to take it off again, and now nut and lug just spin without coming off. I assume the crappy stud they put in is stripped and needs to be replaced, again. Of course the idiots are refusing to take responsibility this time, blaming it on me , saying I cross threaded it when I was changing my wheels for racing No, not racing!! I must destroy lugs left and right autocrossing the car. Except for the 19 other OEMs that have lasted over 130k miles and dozens of wheel changes with no problems
My understanding is on this car the hub must be pressed out to replace the studs. Will I have to replace my almost new bearing again when this happens?
I'm trying to figure out how bad the shop is trying to screw me, and wether I should take their offer of doing the work "at cost" or take my business elsewhere.
Thanks in advance!
#2
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Look, if they over torqued your wheels that badly, then all of your studs probably need to be replaced as they have all been stretched and fatigued. On top of that, it probably will warp your brake rotors and it may have damaged your wheels.
If the stud is spinning freely, then the knurls on the back have been stripped. Hopefully it is the knurls on the stud and not on the hub, otherwise, you may need a new hub.
It sounds like these jokers screwed up a ton of shit, and they are never gonna just pay for it without legal action. I say you make a demand on them, which they will undoubtedly refuse, and then you just sue them in small claims court. Its the only way you will see your money out of this one.
If the stud is spinning freely, then the knurls on the back have been stripped. Hopefully it is the knurls on the stud and not on the hub, otherwise, you may need a new hub.
It sounds like these jokers screwed up a ton of shit, and they are never gonna just pay for it without legal action. I say you make a demand on them, which they will undoubtedly refuse, and then you just sue them in small claims court. Its the only way you will see your money out of this one.
#3
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Originally Posted by TJF,Oct 15 2007, 04:14 PM
Look, if they over torqued your wheels that badly, then all of your studs probably need to be replaced as they have all been stretched and fatigued. On top of that, it probably will warp your brake rotors and it may have damaged your wheels.
One arguement they tried to make as to why they won't cover it this time is because I didn't bring it back in at the first sign of trouble. Like why did I tighten the nut if I felt resistance? But what was I supposed to do, leave a lugnut off?
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The studs will not come out without removing the hub assembly from the spindle. When pressing the hub out, the outer bearing race will stay on the hub, opening up the bearing. If the bearing stays clean, you can probably re-use it. I know I did, with no problems, so far (25K miles).
If you need a new hub, then you will need a new bearing. I have had no luck getting the bearing race off of the hub without ruining it.
If you need a new hub, then you will need a new bearing. I have had no luck getting the bearing race off of the hub without ruining it.
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