Break in the 2.5L inlinepro engine
Originally Posted by Slows2k,Jun 4 2005, 08:42 AM
If the sleeves they use remove the oil squirters, they are taking a big reliablity risk at the expense of big displacement.
Got a pic of the bottom of the sleeve?
Got a pic of the bottom of the sleeve?
Originally Posted by Slows2k,Jun 4 2005, 08:42 AM
If the sleeves they use remove the oil squirters, they are taking a big reliablity risk at the expense of big displacement.
Got a pic of the bottom of the sleeve?
Got a pic of the bottom of the sleeve?
Oil squirters are stock on multiple honda engines, The NSX, B motors, H, motors Etc. Etc. It's beyond me why you remove the piston cooling/lubrication from any of these engines.
So far the big #'s I've seen on this thread are 3 junk engines.
So far the big #'s I've seen on this thread are 3 junk engines.
Originally Posted by Slows2k,Jun 4 2005, 02:42 PM
If the sleeves they use remove the oil squirters, they are taking a big reliablity risk at the expense of big displacement.
Got a pic of the bottom of the sleeve?
Got a pic of the bottom of the sleeve?
Originally Posted by S2000_Europe,Jun 4 2005, 06:21 PM
Matt
did you used the stock oil pump?
did you used the stock oil pump?

Local skyline modifiers had similar problem to this when they upgraded with nismo oil pump. The problem occurred after prolonged high rev. Where the pump just empty the oil from pan into the head faster than oil return. The solution was a smaller restrictor, a nismo restrictor.
Juan it may pay to get an oil pressure gauge with some sort of playback function and keep an eye on the oil pressure.
Good luck with the rebuild Juan.
You can increase and also have more consistant oil pressure through-out the engine by removing the oil squirters. It's believed be some that the amount of friction between the iron sleeved blocks and the aftermarket aluminum pistons is low enough to not need the cooling or lubrication of the squirters. Some people go without it and others decide to keep them. It's more of a safety reason to keep them installed. The chances of oil failure related damage increases greatly with the lack of the squirters and the factory oil pump is a great unit and there's honestly no benefit to plugging the squirters.
I would place the blame on the squirters being plugged up. This wouldn't be the first time there has been damage due to no squirters. It's too bad you already agreed to their terms.
I would place the blame on the squirters being plugged up. This wouldn't be the first time there has been damage due to no squirters. It's too bad you already agreed to their terms.
Originally Posted by kane.s2k,Jun 2 2005, 06:43 PM
oh ok...that's a big chunk of information that was missing from before. So that basically adds to making blkturbos2k's comment even more null and void. Not to mention there are plenty of vehicles out there that run higher compression, leaner, and with shit gas (91 octane) from the factory.
Sounds to me like a problem with the build up. Who did you have build the motor? Are the oil squirters still in place?
You say noise...not the sound of a bearing that's been spun or is it? I haven't followed this whole thread so I haven't bothered to really read it...sorry if you've already answered these.
Sounds to me like a problem with the build up. Who did you have build the motor? Are the oil squirters still in place?
You say noise...not the sound of a bearing that's been spun or is it? I haven't followed this whole thread so I haven't bothered to really read it...sorry if you've already answered these.
But it's pretty much decided that the motor didn't blow from running lean 
14.5's on a N/A motor isn't gonna blow it with 91-93 octane...and definately not in the low amount of miles he had on his motor and ESPECIALLY with low throttle. Here's a factory example...my bike:
12.8:1 (or was it 12.4:1) compression
91 Octane minimum
14.5's all across +/- .5 at different RPM's
Built for high load safely
If 14.5's are so dangerous on a well built block N/A block...a lot of manufacturers would be pulling out and revising. The knock sensor would have pulled out a lot of timing if there was knock. It's easy to just blame him since he made a mistake but the odds are heavily that it wasn't just the injectors. Majority of the time, low load & short milage engine failures are defects in the engine itself, not the tune.
He also stated that the plugs were fine and didn't show anything abnormal which also goes against pre-ignition from bad gas or w/e.
Running lean might have caused it, but it's pretty unlikely...maybe if he was gunning it around and didn't tell us. But it doesn't matter. He already agreed to pay for basically half.

14.5's on a N/A motor isn't gonna blow it with 91-93 octane...and definately not in the low amount of miles he had on his motor and ESPECIALLY with low throttle. Here's a factory example...my bike:
12.8:1 (or was it 12.4:1) compression
91 Octane minimum
14.5's all across +/- .5 at different RPM's
Built for high load safely
If 14.5's are so dangerous on a well built block N/A block...a lot of manufacturers would be pulling out and revising. The knock sensor would have pulled out a lot of timing if there was knock. It's easy to just blame him since he made a mistake but the odds are heavily that it wasn't just the injectors. Majority of the time, low load & short milage engine failures are defects in the engine itself, not the tune.
He also stated that the plugs were fine and didn't show anything abnormal which also goes against pre-ignition from bad gas or w/e.
Running lean might have caused it, but it's pretty unlikely...maybe if he was gunning it around and didn't tell us. But it doesn't matter. He already agreed to pay for basically half.






