broken engine two days after ecu change
I'd like to share my sad experience with you.
Let's talk about the car itself.
4/2001 Honda S2000
German car
90.000km
Oil Shell 10W-60 Helix Racing Synthetic (oil change 2 weeks ago)
100 octane Shell VPower
tuning:
camshafts Dr. Schrick
Exhaust Spoon N1
Intake AEM V2
4.77 Diff
Engine stopped immedeatly after 300 km on the german highway.
There was definitly no miss shift.
I didn't drive top speed with that short Diff, but i accelerated a lot till 9000/min.
On a first view there were no exhaust valves visible in the head on the 4. zylinder.
So they both made their way down to piston and stopped the engine.
I had my car several times on a dyno and the air/fuel ratio was perfect balanced.
My last idea was to exchange the ecu with a version 2003 ecu from an accidental car. The car felt really strong after that change, but only for 400km............
Could be that this was a pure coincidence, but may be it was not.
I was on the way to a dyno to measure with some S2000.
Walter
Let's talk about the car itself.
4/2001 Honda S2000
German car
90.000km
Oil Shell 10W-60 Helix Racing Synthetic (oil change 2 weeks ago)
100 octane Shell VPower
tuning:
camshafts Dr. Schrick
Exhaust Spoon N1
Intake AEM V2
4.77 Diff
Engine stopped immedeatly after 300 km on the german highway.
There was definitly no miss shift.
I didn't drive top speed with that short Diff, but i accelerated a lot till 9000/min.
On a first view there were no exhaust valves visible in the head on the 4. zylinder.
So they both made their way down to piston and stopped the engine.
I had my car several times on a dyno and the air/fuel ratio was perfect balanced.
My last idea was to exchange the ecu with a version 2003 ecu from an accidental car. The car felt really strong after that change, but only for 400km............
Could be that this was a pure coincidence, but may be it was not.
I was on the way to a dyno to measure with some S2000.
Walter
I'll bet this isn't an ECU issue at all. Sounds like a purely mechanical issue with the retainers/keepers letting go. I don't know those cams but, some cams are too aggressive for stock valvetrain hardware.
So, I'd be looking at the cams and cam installation.
So, I'd be looking at the cams and cam installation.
First : I'm sorry to hear about your engine
Why did you use 10W-60 oil?
At operating temp that oil has a (kinematic) viscosity that is at least twice as much as any xxW-30 oil.
IMO the F20C wasn't designed to use that oil.
It may have been to hard for the oil pump to get the flow you NEED at 9000 rpm.
What was different about the Dr. Schrick cams?
Did you use the OEM valves & springs & retainers?
If valves "go missing" then that is your first point to look for a fault.
Why did you use 10W-60 oil?
At operating temp that oil has a (kinematic) viscosity that is at least twice as much as any xxW-30 oil.
IMO the F20C wasn't designed to use that oil.
It may have been to hard for the oil pump to get the flow you NEED at 9000 rpm.
What was different about the Dr. Schrick cams?
Did you use the OEM valves & springs & retainers?
If valves "go missing" then that is your first point to look for a fault.
Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Sep 20 2006, 07:48 AM
Why did you use 10W-60 oil?
At operating temp that oil has a (kinematic) viscosity that is at least twice as much as any xxW-30 oil.
IMO the F20C wasn't designed to use that oil.
It may have been to hard for the oil pump to get the flow you NEED at 9000 rpm.
What was different about the Dr. Schrick cams?
At operating temp that oil has a (kinematic) viscosity that is at least twice as much as any xxW-30 oil.
IMO the F20C wasn't designed to use that oil.
It may have been to hard for the oil pump to get the flow you NEED at 9000 rpm.
What was different about the Dr. Schrick cams?
Maybe those cams shoved your valves into the pistons more easily.



Your A/F might have been a bit too lean at the higher rpm range with the 03 ECU, also why are you running 10w-60?

