S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Bumpsteer racking my brain

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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 07:31 AM
  #21  
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It's almost as compliant as Oem I guarantee you can't tell the difference, also poly bushings aren't great for our cars, it's your car obviously, but I personally wouldn't waste my money on poly bushings. Rubber lasts and is much more maintenance free.
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 07:37 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101
It's almost as compliant as Oem I guarantee you can't tell the difference, also poly bushings aren't great for our cars, it's your car obviously, but I personally wouldn't waste my money on poly bushings. Rubber lasts and is much more maintenance free.
Should I get the pillowball hardrace or just the hardrace rubber?
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 11:59 AM
  #23  
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Rubber is much cheaper, I'd go with that, pillow ball on a street car is very annoying, it'll add a lot vibration to the suspension. Granted you could probably get away with pillowball compliance bushings rubber everything else, but cost is a factor. Those pillowball bushings are very expensive, plus they're not as maintenance free as the rubber ones.
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 12:06 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by B serious
Wait...why is tightness of bolts relative to wear of bushings? I don't believe needing to tighten bolts further than normal has anything to do with bushing wear.

Rubber bushings have a metal sleeve that the bolts clamp. The metal sleeve never wears out.

Worn bushings can cause alignment issues and bumpsteer. Have the bushings always been clocked properly?

It also may be because you have extended upper AND lower ball joints. Its the same as making your spindles longer on both ends. Your UCA/LCA angles and curves will differ a lot from stock.
The sleeve the bolt passes through is metal, but the bushing is rubber, the rubber from a bad and torn bushing deflects and absorbs some of the torque when you tighten the lock nut.
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 12:06 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101
Rubber is much cheaper, I'd go with that, pillow ball on a street car is very annoying, it'll add a lot vibration to the suspension. Granted you could probably get away with pillowball compliance bushings rubber everything else, but cost is a factor. Those pillowball bushings are very expensive, plus they're not as maintenance free as the rubber ones.

I really hope the bushings are the main culprit not just an addition to the issue. The next thing I can think of is the rack itself, which has already been replaced and been working fine for years.
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 12:10 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by B serious
It also may be because you have extended upper AND lower ball joints. Its the same as making your spindles longer on both ends. Your UCA/LCA angles and curves will differ a lot from stock.
I was having this issue before I installed the lower ball joint. Before last May the upper ball joints gave me no issues, I even took the car to the track and multiple autox sessions for the past 4 years and no issues until last May.
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 07:23 PM
  #27  
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Update* So I replaced the front LCA and UCA with Hard race harden rubber bushings. The car feels better and doing the alignment is a breeze BUT the bump steer is still there. Next I'll be replacing the steering rack and hoping that will be the end all be all.
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Old Aug 20, 2016 | 10:23 AM
  #28  
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keep us posted! ty for the update
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Old Aug 21, 2016 | 11:51 AM
  #29  
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I don't think it's your steering rack, it's very unlikely. At this point it's more likely that it's something in the rear. Particularly the rear tie rods, just take a look at them, it's free.
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Old Aug 21, 2016 | 02:22 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101
I don't think it's your steering rack, it's very unlikely. At this point it's more likely that it's something in the rear. Particularly the rear tie rods, just take a look at them, it's free.
I have EVS rear toe arms. With the multiple alignments I've done the arms don't change toe with the specs I want.
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