Caliper Rebuild?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,735
Likes: 0
From: WASTED in Margaritaville
Caliper Rebuild?
I was checking out my stock calipers yesterday and I noticed the my drivers side front calipers boot around the piston is shot. I know Honda has a caliper rebuild kit. Has anyone done this themselves? Is it easy, hard, etc.? Whats the dealer cost to do this thing?
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,156
Likes: 0
From: Tucson
i've rebuilt both of my back calipers, and it's a PITA. 
i had to do it for my powdercoat job. it's not really hard, but the first time you do it, it can be rather time consuming and a few parts sometimes don't want to play nice.
at least for the back, you have to get a tool. ummm ... i can't remember the naem of it. it's to remove the brake from the mount. sorry i can't be more specific than that. i'm having a brain fart atm.
oh. and i got the kit from handa-accessories.com (pulled the url from the top of my head, but they're easy enough to find. i hope i got it right.)
i had to do it for my powdercoat job. it's not really hard, but the first time you do it, it can be rather time consuming and a few parts sometimes don't want to play nice.at least for the back, you have to get a tool. ummm ... i can't remember the naem of it. it's to remove the brake from the mount. sorry i can't be more specific than that. i'm having a brain fart atm.
oh. and i got the kit from handa-accessories.com (pulled the url from the top of my head, but they're easy enough to find. i hope i got it right.)
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,280
Likes: 3
From: Murray, UT
I've done it. It's not that hard. Get the kit from handa.com as mentioned, the kits are less than $20 per caliper. It includes a new piston seal ('O' ring), piston boot seal, caliper pin boots, 3 different packets of grease, & a banjo bolt washer.
IMO, the hardest part of the job is getting the piston out of the caliper. I placed some rags in between the piston and the outer part of the caliper and used compressed air in the fluid line inlet. Be careful, the piston exits the caliper bore with quite a bit of force using this method.
You can use a 3/8" drive ratchet to drive the rear piston back into the caliper bore.
Have a couple of cans of brake cleaner to clean eveything up and some brake fluid to top up after the job. Keep that brake cleaner and brake fluid off your paint. .
This is probably a good time to replace your pads and change out your brake fluid.
Make sure to put everything back together as clean as possible.
The Helms manual has an excellent brake (pun intended) down on doing this job. The caliper pin bolt torque is 24 ft-lbs for the fronts and 17 ft-lbs for the rears. The banjo bolt torque is 25 ft-lbs and the bleed screw torque is 6.5 ft-lbs (not much beyond finger tight).
Good luck!
IMO, the hardest part of the job is getting the piston out of the caliper. I placed some rags in between the piston and the outer part of the caliper and used compressed air in the fluid line inlet. Be careful, the piston exits the caliper bore with quite a bit of force using this method.
You can use a 3/8" drive ratchet to drive the rear piston back into the caliper bore.
Have a couple of cans of brake cleaner to clean eveything up and some brake fluid to top up after the job. Keep that brake cleaner and brake fluid off your paint. .
This is probably a good time to replace your pads and change out your brake fluid.
Make sure to put everything back together as clean as possible.
The Helms manual has an excellent brake (pun intended) down on doing this job. The caliper pin bolt torque is 24 ft-lbs for the fronts and 17 ft-lbs for the rears. The banjo bolt torque is 25 ft-lbs and the bleed screw torque is 6.5 ft-lbs (not much beyond finger tight).
Good luck!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
monkeymaker
S2000 Racing and Competition
7
Mar 29, 2003 09:53 AM