S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Cam Cap Broken!

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Old May 17, 2025 | 05:37 PM
  #11  
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As I stated in a previous reply, make sure you find the source and correct it before starting the car up, the previous damage did not happen for no reason.

I always pre-lube the mating parts when I put them in like that, douse them in motor oil on assembly , I guess assembly lube would be okay too, but motor oil is enough. Use a good torque wrench, and oil the bolt threads. If you haven't checked the vtec solenoid screen I would do that as a precaution, make sure there isn't any material collected at the screen.

Last edited by zeroptzero; May 17, 2025 at 05:55 PM.
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Old May 18, 2025 | 04:01 PM
  #12  
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For the record….an oem untouched camwheel bolt will not back out. This is not an “issue” with the S2000.

This happens after headwork, and someone forgets to torque it.
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Old May 18, 2025 | 04:04 PM
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...or replaced leaking o ring, and tightened by feel, not torque wrench?
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Old May 19, 2025 | 11:47 AM
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It takes as much torque as a drain bolt ~33ft/lbs IIRC you can get that by feel, but you need practice. You need to work in the field, a yearly oil change when you put the car up for storage isn't enough muscle memory. You get it from a few track days and daily, or working at a dealership, or even a trusty Jiffy Lube.

And the ones who wrench on these cars for a living obviously.
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Old May 19, 2025 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101
It takes as much torque as a drain bolt ~33ft/lbs IIRC you can get that by feel, but you need practice. You need to work in the field, a yearly oil change when you put the car up for storage isn't enough muscle memory. You get it from a few track days and daily, or working at a dealership, or even a trusty Jiffy Lube.

And the ones who wrench on these cars for a living obviously.
Ok. But if its not unheard-of for someone doing headwork to fail to tighten it enough, then all the more so someone just changing o ring.
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Old May 19, 2025 | 01:02 PM
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The oil channel on the bottom of the original Cam Cap 1 looks bone dry.
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Old May 19, 2025 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by zeroptzero
As I stated in a previous reply, make sure you find the source and correct it before starting the car up, the previous damage did not happen for no reason.

I always pre-lube the mating parts when I put them in like that, douse them in motor oil on assembly , I guess assembly lube would be okay too, but motor oil is enough. Use a good torque wrench, and oil the bolt threads. If you haven't checked the vtec solenoid screen I would do that as a precaution, make sure there isn't any material collected at the screen.
Replaced Cams, Cam Caps, and Cam sensors.
Replacing gasket/screen for the V-tech solenoid.
Checking Camwheel bolt torque.
Changing oil filter + oil change (obviously)

Anything else I should look for/do before trying to start it? Is there a way to be sure the top end is getting oil?
Just want to be sure I cover the bases as well as possible to avoid any future issues.

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Old May 19, 2025 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by DuncansS2k
Replaced Cams, Cam Caps, and Cam sensors.
Replacing gasket/screen for the V-tech solenoid.
Checking Camwheel bolt torque.
Changing oil filter + oil change (obviously)

Anything else I should look for/do before trying to start it? Is there a way to be sure the top end is getting oil?
Just want to be sure I cover the bases as well as possible to avoid any future issues.
A good valve adjustment.

It has been a few years since I took the caps off, I think one of them has an o-ring that is used. If so, make sure the o-ring is in place. Correct me if I am wrong.

I don't know how you guarantee oil flow to the top end, other than running the engine and doing a follow-up inspection.
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Old May 20, 2025 | 03:31 AM
  #19  
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Read the service manual
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Old May 21, 2025 | 10:56 AM
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Im almost tempted to suggest to drop the oil pan to see if there's any chunks. At least cut open the filter, if you at least drain the oil use a strong magnet to see if you can slide any chunks to the oil drain hole.
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