car dies after iacv cleaning
01-03-2018, 05:14 PM
#12
map whack yes
proper idle learn yes
im new to s2000 im not new to hondas
it doesnt just die. the idle is steady besides dipping on startup and when i tap the throttle. im obviously not tapping the throttle while its learning idle.. i dont know why someone would even do that
since theres no FITV what is the other passage for in the throttle body?
i know one is for iacv and on b series the second one is for fitv
proper idle learn yes
im new to s2000 im not new to hondas
it doesnt just die. the idle is steady besides dipping on startup and when i tap the throttle. im obviously not tapping the throttle while its learning idle.. i dont know why someone would even do that
since theres no FITV what is the other passage for in the throttle body?
i know one is for iacv and on b series the second one is for fitv
01-03-2018, 05:17 PM
#13
does anyone have the iacv duty cycle at idle? where it should be i might be able to see if maybe the throttle plate is too toight and iacv is out of its duty cycle and fluctuating
11-11-2018, 10:27 AM
#14
Registered User
Been a while, but I wondered if you got your idle dip problem sorted. I have had it for a while now and checked about everything. TB, MAP, IAC completely stripped, etc. Still does it. I have had some thoughts over the position of the motor drive on the IAC as it changes rpm when I rotate it. Clockwise rotation increasing rpm and it seems to cure the problem for a few seconds. I also developed a real resonating hum when I put the IAC back on....For the third time. It must be sensitive to being exactly lined up with the manifold. Appreciate your response and also interested in how to test Duty Cycle.
11-13-2018, 12:14 AM
#15
11-13-2018, 04:37 AM
#16
Moderator
In 95% of idle cases, it is always IAC, or an IAC improperly serviced.
No cleaner is used, and will likely make it worse. Disassembly and freeing up the shaft is key.
There are special provisions upon re-assembly:
-shaft must be timed, with tab pointing towards engine (passenger side)
-hourglass shaped spacers must be in place
-motor must be timed to center (when the two pentacle screws are finger tight, the motor can turn back and forth as the holes are slotted; learn the two extremes, and center the motor before tightening screws)
No cleaner is used, and will likely make it worse. Disassembly and freeing up the shaft is key.
There are special provisions upon re-assembly:
-shaft must be timed, with tab pointing towards engine (passenger side)
-hourglass shaped spacers must be in place
-motor must be timed to center (when the two pentacle screws are finger tight, the motor can turn back and forth as the holes are slotted; learn the two extremes, and center the motor before tightening screws)
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twohoos (11-26-2018)
11-19-2018, 08:20 AM
#17
In 95% of idle cases, it is always IAC, or an IAC improperly serviced.
No cleaner is used, and will likely make it worse. Disassembly and freeing up the shaft is key.
There are special provisions upon re-assembly:
-shaft must be timed, with tab pointing towards engine (passenger side)
-hourglass shaped spacers must be in place
-motor must be timed to center (when the two pentacle screws are finger tight, the motor can turn back and forth as the holes are slotted; learn the two extremes, and center the motor before tightening screws)
No cleaner is used, and will likely make it worse. Disassembly and freeing up the shaft is key.
There are special provisions upon re-assembly:
-shaft must be timed, with tab pointing towards engine (passenger side)
-hourglass shaped spacers must be in place
-motor must be timed to center (when the two pentacle screws are finger tight, the motor can turn back and forth as the holes are slotted; learn the two extremes, and center the motor before tightening screws)
thanks!
11-26-2018, 08:48 AM
#18
Registered User
Changing my knock sensor has stopped my problem. I had already stripped and cleaned my IAC fully.
Also the engine stops dead now when I turn the key to off. Before it would do that bit of a shudder before stopping.
Also the engine stops dead now when I turn the key to off. Before it would do that bit of a shudder before stopping.
11-26-2018, 09:08 PM
#19
That's interesting. No CEL was thrown for the knock sensor, correct?
12-05-2018, 08:12 AM
#20
Registered User
Correct! No Cel. I also have a Launch CReader VII+ and it shows no codes either. I did a continuity test with the old sensor and was getting a reading of 1 ohm. The new one was giving me 3 ohms.
telling me that one was not working. ( Ignore the YouTube videos etc that tell you there should be no continuity) At £10 it was a cheap fix but it meant I had to take off the Throttle body, Alternator
and Inlet manifold bracket to get to the sensor from the top. I wanted to change a bearing on an idler pulley and have a look at the alternator connector anyway so went ahead. Its still a bit of a fiddle
but worth it. Still got that hum from the intake though?
telling me that one was not working. ( Ignore the YouTube videos etc that tell you there should be no continuity) At £10 it was a cheap fix but it meant I had to take off the Throttle body, Alternator
and Inlet manifold bracket to get to the sensor from the top. I wanted to change a bearing on an idler pulley and have a look at the alternator connector anyway so went ahead. Its still a bit of a fiddle
but worth it. Still got that hum from the intake though?