Change oil for winter?
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From: THE WORSt f*cking roads
Change oil for winter?
Well winter is soon arriving, and I'm due for an oil change. Should I go with Mobil 1 10W-30 and new filter? Or just change the oil and leave the filter there? Keep in mind I do not drive it during the winter. I just go in once a week and let it run idle for about 15 minutes or so, turn it off, and tuck her back in under the cover 
Then when Spring arrives, change the oil again and run a Hamp filter 
Thanx,
Chris
Then when Spring arrives, change the oil again and run a Hamp filter Thanx,
Chris
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From: Midlothian
new oil, new filter. I would recommend an ester-based synoil for the last word in protection - you would only need to start it up once/month.
Running at idle is not a good idea - too rich and will foul the oil - better to raise and lower the RPM, or better yet, drive it if you can.
Running at idle is not a good idea - too rich and will foul the oil - better to raise and lower the RPM, or better yet, drive it if you can.
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From: West Henrietta UPSTATE NY
I have been storing cars for the winter for a long time.
I always replace the oil and filter within about 100 miles of when it goes into storage so it sits all winter with fresh fluids.
In the spring I do not dump that oil, I drive with it, and then 3,000 miles later do another oil and filter change.
And, as the age-old controversy, here are my 2 pennies. I do not start my car every couple of weeks and let it idle, or start it up every couple of weeks and vary the throttle. I add a bit of fuel stabilizer to the tank and run it through the engine. I take out the battery and put it in the warm house. The next time I start the car is 5 months later on a warm day, when I'm ready to start driving it again.
I always replace the oil and filter within about 100 miles of when it goes into storage so it sits all winter with fresh fluids.
In the spring I do not dump that oil, I drive with it, and then 3,000 miles later do another oil and filter change.
And, as the age-old controversy, here are my 2 pennies. I do not start my car every couple of weeks and let it idle, or start it up every couple of weeks and vary the throttle. I add a bit of fuel stabilizer to the tank and run it through the engine. I take out the battery and put it in the warm house. The next time I start the car is 5 months later on a warm day, when I'm ready to start driving it again.
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From: THE WORSt f*cking roads
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Triple-H
I have been storing cars for the winter for a long time.
I always replace the oil and filter within about 100 miles of when it goes into storage so it sits all winter with fresh fluids.
I have been storing cars for the winter for a long time.
I always replace the oil and filter within about 100 miles of when it goes into storage so it sits all winter with fresh fluids.
Joined: Mar 2001
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If you don't plan on replacing the oil in the spring, then get good oil now.
The trouble with doing a cold start once a week and not running it till it gets up to operating temp is that your exhaust system will accumulate condensation and this will shorten its life via corrosion, rust, etc.
If you take out your battery or even if you put a smart charger on it, there is really no need to start up the engine at all during the storage period, especially if you don't plan to drive it anywhere.
The trouble with doing a cold start once a week and not running it till it gets up to operating temp is that your exhaust system will accumulate condensation and this will shorten its life via corrosion, rust, etc.
If you take out your battery or even if you put a smart charger on it, there is really no need to start up the engine at all during the storage period, especially if you don't plan to drive it anywhere.
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From: Canton, MA
No, do what Triple H said.
Do the oil and filter change before you put the car into storage. Use good oil. Run the engine for a minute or two after the change and then shut it off. Do not start it every week or whatever, start it in the spring when you are ready to start driving again. Leave the oil in and drive for 3,000 miles. Reasons:
1. Your used oil has acids in it and they get stronger just sitting in the garage or outside. They tend to etch into the bearings. You don't want to store the car with old oil.
2. Starting an engine that has sat for a week or a month or two is an accelerated wear problem. The oil drains into the pan and in a week you have very little protection left on the moving parts. When you start the car, there is a moment before the oil pressure comes up that the metal is running on metal. Why would you want to do this every week? Do it once a year.
3. There is nothing wrong with the fresh oil that sat all winter in the pan because it wasn't really exposed to the products of combustion. Its about as good in your engine pan as it was in the can on the shelf. (ok, not quite as good, but nothing to worry about.)
Do the oil and filter change before you put the car into storage. Use good oil. Run the engine for a minute or two after the change and then shut it off. Do not start it every week or whatever, start it in the spring when you are ready to start driving again. Leave the oil in and drive for 3,000 miles. Reasons:
1. Your used oil has acids in it and they get stronger just sitting in the garage or outside. They tend to etch into the bearings. You don't want to store the car with old oil.
2. Starting an engine that has sat for a week or a month or two is an accelerated wear problem. The oil drains into the pan and in a week you have very little protection left on the moving parts. When you start the car, there is a moment before the oil pressure comes up that the metal is running on metal. Why would you want to do this every week? Do it once a year.
3. There is nothing wrong with the fresh oil that sat all winter in the pan because it wasn't really exposed to the products of combustion. Its about as good in your engine pan as it was in the can on the shelf. (ok, not quite as good, but nothing to worry about.)
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From: Midlothian
I think everyone missed my point - I suggested ester-based oil because it stays on the metal surfaces - it will always leave some oil on the upper valvetrain. It has to do with the polar affinity of its intrinsic charge. Then, you truly would not have to start it at all, and the attendant acidification and fuel dilution are not an issue.
You can make a real cheap trickle charger. Get a 12v 1 amp wall-wart from Radio Shack. They also sell large alligator clamps. Crimp or solder the alligators to the transformer wires (noting polarity with mulitimeter), and then run the whole she-bang to a timer outlet. Run it for 12 hours on, 12 off.
You can make a real cheap trickle charger. Get a 12v 1 amp wall-wart from Radio Shack. They also sell large alligator clamps. Crimp or solder the alligators to the transformer wires (noting polarity with mulitimeter), and then run the whole she-bang to a timer outlet. Run it for 12 hours on, 12 off.
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