becuase you have to tilt the engine back and i don't think the wires going to the alt and the a/c lines will be long enough when you rock the engine back and they can break.

 

that is what I was thinking.......that is why I did it anyway.........

 

Remove alternator for: Easy access to upper A/C compressor bolts, and upper starter bolt.

Remove A/C compressor: You can remove the 4 bolts, you don't even have to pull it away and aside. Leaving it bolted puts major strain on the aluminum A/C lines.

 

Holy cow that was bitch to remove from underneath the car.

...until I picked up a long enough extension (36") and realized that you can see the bolt from above by looking between the 3rd and 4th intake runner. Just guide the extension in from the front of the engine, just above the tensioner, and eyeball it from the top of the intake. The revised procedure reduced the operation from 30 minutes to 10 seconds.

 

I slid the extension and socket in from the front but then got under the car and blindly helped the socket onto the bolt. I then had to get back up to the front to turn it. I didn't realise you could see it from up top.

Also, I didn't disconnect the AC. I hope I didn't damage the lines but I think I would know if I did.

 

OK the clutch is in and working great as of last night. The install went very smooth with no real problems. I only had a hard time seating the trans, I could not get the motor on the right angel to get the bell housing to clear the bottom of the car. Once I got it in almost all the way in, I could not get it to go the last 2 inches or so. My brother in law (owner of shop) tought me a great trick. All I had to do was pry on the release fork a little to take tension off the disk and it slid right in. I was amazed when he showed me. I was fighting with the trans for like 10 min and he walked over told me what to do and what do u know .....it worked. (listed to the experts)!!!!!!!

That upper started bolt was pretty easy to get to for me b/c I removed the alternator. I was in a trans shop so I had every tool that u could think of. The allighnment tool that I used was a HONDA 58. That is what it said on the tool. The splines were perfect but where it goes into the pilot bearing was a little small. I wraped electric tape around the end of it twice, and it was a perfect fit.

The only thing that I regret is not getting a lightend flywheel. I know that I will prob get one soon and have to take everything apart again. Next time around I think I could do a clutch in about 6 hours on a lift. The only reason this took me 2 days was b/c I had to get the flywheel re-cut and took my time

Thanks you all for all the advice and help. It really made the job easier. I feel bad for the guys that do it on their back without a lift, you are some real troopers.

Thanks again Kenny

 

I almost broke my arm trying to put that top screw of the starter motor back in.

How did you exactly do it.

I tried it from underneath the car but searched for half an hour with my hand for th eright spot!?

 

I have little girly hands and forearms.

Seriously, it was a very tight and painful fit but my right hand went up beside the bell housing until I found the bump cast into behind the threaded section. Then I would twist my hand to the left and be able to feel the shaft and head of the bolt. I could start the bolt and align the socket on it before going back upstairs and doing the hard work.

 

I did put electrical tape on the 17 socket to hold the screw.

But now I know where the hole is and next time I'll find it faster.

In my version of the S2000 tech doc this screw was not even mentioned!



@ all: Did any of you replace the original clutch by an aftermarket one which he can recommend?!

Thanks

 

I used a rebuilt OEM rebirthed and upgraded by a highly regarded local clutch and brake specialist. It's very drivable yet handles the extra power of FI with out a grumble.