Just some quick questions. I haven't really checked it out yet. How difficult is it? Like changing the Oil? What fluid should I use? I'm due for my 30,000 mi service and asked my dealer what they do for the 200 something bucks that they charge and it seems like a lot of BS. Mainly just changing fluids and alot of "checking" of things What do you think.

 

I just did mine at 15k at the dealer... cost around $40 I believe, wanted to keep all fluids clean, so went with the "severe driving" option

 

1FastS2k,

The process should be brainless. I just bought tools and fluid to do my change tomorrow.

23mm wrench (Autozone) - $4.30
24mm socket (Autozone) - $2.99
Diff. fluid Mobile 1 (Autozone) - $6.99
Diff./Transmission fluid spout (Pep boys) - $3.99

I'll post pictures and a report for you Sunday or Monday.

 

1FastS2k,

ITR and I did our diff. fluid yesterday afternoon. These are some of the things you need.

1. Hydrolic jack, 2 Jackstands, and somthing to hold the front tires from rolling.
2. Some kind of oil catch
3. 23mm wrench (Autozone) - $4.30
4. 24mm socket (Autozone) - $2.99
5. Diff. fluid Mobile 1 (Autozone) - $6.99
6. Diff./Transmission fluid spout (Pep boys) - $3.99

Just put the rear on the jackstands and put something behind the tires for safety reasons (pieces of 2x4, brick, etc.). Remove the fill bolt and the train bolt:



23mm wrench is required for the fill bolt and the 24mm socket is required for the drain bolt.

I have 47,000 miles on the car and previously only had the diff. oil changed at 30,000 miles. The oil was pretty clean this time. ITR has 19,000 miles on his S2000, and his was kind of dark. I don't know if it's just the color of the factory gear lube.

ITR's magnetic drain bolt had some really dark grease on it...but it didn't seem to have any metal shavings or grit on it. I had a layer of metallic "sand" particles on my drain bolt...and also some little chips of metal:



The spout from pep boys worked decently, but the threads on the lube oil bottle doesn't hold all that well. A simillar tool can be bought at a fish store or home depot. Just get a long plastic tube you can gravity feed the lube oil into the fill hole. ITR and I just feed the lube oil untill it started to overflow our of the fill hole.

 

Note: It is important that you do this on a level surface. Also, lower the car off of the jack with the fill bolt removed to allow the differential fluid to drain to the right level.

 

7) Fill Plug Gasket

8) Drain Plug Gasket



Utah

P.S. These are vital as they are a crush seal gaskets!

 

Utah S2K,

I honestly wanted to replace the gaskets, but no one had it in stock.

I have been checking the garage floor in the morning to see if there would be a building puddle of gear lube oil...nothing yet : )

I'll be sure to pre-order the gaskets on my next change.

 

hey guys!
Im currently working for honda right now and recommend the diff fluid be changed every 6k miles.It gets dirty at about every 3k miles.we use 90w hypoid oil which is a dark slimy yellow.when its dirty its dark greyish black.at 6k miles its not as bad.its good to change the diff fluid so it doesnt ruin the clutchpacks in the lsd.If you r doing this i recommend flushing it out a couple of times.I normally dip my finger in the fill bolt to see the condition, then dran it.plug the drain bolt then fill,then drain again to get the extra varnishes out.can anyone get magetic drain bolt?

 

Clutch packs in a torsen???

 

Thanx for all of the replys. I still haven't had time to do it though. Is there any certain brand that lasts longer? Thing is that I easily put 2500 to 3000 miles a month.