I'm changine my back rotors and pads on my s2k and I'm really having a problem here. Replacing the rotor with some Power Slot Rotors and just OEM Honda Brake Pads. I can't seem to get the piston to push back in on the caliper and it's getting me frustrated. I have the cap off of the brake fluid in the engine bay. Don't know why I'm having such a hard time. Any help or tricks would be appreciated. Need the car running because it is my daily driver.

 

There should be an "X" indented on the piston. That needs to be rotated clockwise, screwed in basically, rather than pushed in. Just looked it up in the shop manual.

I've never done it personally, maybe someone else can give any additional info.

 

Yea just realized that....Man I'm an idiot. Can't seem to turn it though. It doesn't really seem to be budging at all.

 

You will have to turn the piston - I just used a big flat head screwdriver and kind of put it sideways across the groove to turn it.

Depending on how extended the piston is, it could be stuck and require a little force. This happened to me after changing a completely exhausted set of OEM pads after a track day.

 

Most parts stores have the right tool for this job as a loaner tool. A screw driver will work but why not do it right? If you have to you can loosen the bleeder and twist the caliper in but you'll have to force bleed all four calipers. Force = help of another, gravity bleed is not enough.

 

here's a few ways to turn it

1. screwdriver sideways in the groove
2. cube tool w/ socket wrench ebay
3. 3/8 wrench head

it's going to be tough torquing it but if either you or a buddy can't turn it, you should look into a new caliper

 

If both screw/twist it back in, why waste a trip to the parts store and stand in line ect ect.

I've always used a screw driver or a 3/8" drive wrench fits in the center of the X

 

I actually just changed my pads, lines, and fluid last night. The cube tool is the best option and will yield the fastest results. The poor man's screw driver trick will also work, but you may scratch your knuckles up a bit.

The backs require the cube tool, the fronts require a C clamp.

 

The hard part is starting to get the piston to turn. After it has turned a little, it gets easier.

Make sure you finish turning with the X lined up perpendicular and parallel to the caliper body. If you don't, the small stud on the back of the brake pad will hit the piston, causing your brake pad to wear unevenly.

 

Thanks for all the help guys. Got it in last night. Was a pain to get it it in put was well worth it. I just ended up taking a screw driver and used that to turn it. Took some time to do but it did the job.