Clunk when disengaging clutch moving slowly
07-13-2011, 05:19 AM
#21
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look around the big diff mounts in the rear, they may be busted. If they are you will see some nasty fluid around the mount. Those things are liquid filled.
Also, on the issue about how to torque the axle nuts.. pop the center cap out of the wheel, bolt it on, put the car back on the ground, set the e-brake or have someone hold the brake pedal then torque away.
It is curious to me, the front uses the exact same wheel bearing and the preload on that is 247ft/lbs. (IIRC)
Also, on the issue about how to torque the axle nuts.. pop the center cap out of the wheel, bolt it on, put the car back on the ground, set the e-brake or have someone hold the brake pedal then torque away.
It is curious to me, the front uses the exact same wheel bearing and the preload on that is 247ft/lbs. (IIRC)
I also checked my mount's 1-2 weeks ago when installing my diffuser, and they looked fine.
The strange thing is that it's not just 1 single metallic "click", it's like a fading-out metallic "bouncing" sound as you can hear in the video.
EDIT:
Maybe i should add that the sound is not there on a cold start, only when it's hot. So therefore I belive it must have something to do with the gearbox/differential internals since their oil viscosity changes with the temp, and the heat would not effect the behaviour of the clutch I belive... so I think the clutch is ruled out.
07-21-2011, 05:23 PM
#23
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OP, it might be your diff carrier... i had the same clunking noise going forward and backwards at 2mph to 4mph and quickly disengaging the clutch. (like i stated in the previous post)
so, a little over 2 months ago, i had a clicking noise from the diff when i'm slowing down in neutral, and only in neutral, where it doesn't happen when i was accel or decel in gear.
since i'm still under warranty, i took the car in. found out the pinion gear is cracked. got that along with the final drive gear replaced. got the car back, the clunking noise was still there when i forward and backwards at 2mph to 4mph and quickly disengaging the clutch.
drove on it for 1k miles, diff started leaking and whining at 40+mph... took it back to the dealer, they replaced the differential carrier assembly. what they told me was, driving the car hard stretches the assembly.
after i got the car back from getting the differential carrier assembly replaced, i noticed the clunking noise is gone.
so, in summary. it could be your diff if you drive the car hard.
so, a little over 2 months ago, i had a clicking noise from the diff when i'm slowing down in neutral, and only in neutral, where it doesn't happen when i was accel or decel in gear.
since i'm still under warranty, i took the car in. found out the pinion gear is cracked. got that along with the final drive gear replaced. got the car back, the clunking noise was still there when i forward and backwards at 2mph to 4mph and quickly disengaging the clutch.
drove on it for 1k miles, diff started leaking and whining at 40+mph... took it back to the dealer, they replaced the differential carrier assembly. what they told me was, driving the car hard stretches the assembly.
after i got the car back from getting the differential carrier assembly replaced, i noticed the clunking noise is gone.
so, in summary. it could be your diff if you drive the car hard.
09-13-2011, 07:08 AM
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i have the same exact noise!!!! the wierd thing is that my diff is a built puddy mod stage 2 diff. its strong and still works but i get this sound. ive checked the bolts and any play when i installed the diff and everything seems tight. after weeks of searching i saw a post saying we have sticky LSDs which is causing it.
09-19-2011, 02:01 PM
#27
Did you tighten it off the ground? Was the brake enough to hold it?
I had a wheel bearing go out because I torques an axle nut when the tire was slightly on the ground. I'm not going through that with this car.
I had a wheel bearing go out because I torques an axle nut when the tire was slightly on the ground. I'm not going through that with this car.
09-19-2011, 02:35 PM
#28
09-19-2011, 02:37 PM
#29
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found it for ya:
Axle nuts not tight enough from factory. Covers all s2ks, 2000-2009. Even if you have no issues, all s2ks should have the "Axle nut tsb" performed. Cars that have not had it done are almost certain to develop shifting hubs, then worn hubs, then destroyed bearings.
First off, DO NOT buy new nuts...you'll see why soon.
The nut has a bent over part called a stake. The staked part of the nut is bent into a slot on the axle. This is a safety so the nut cant come loose. Using a hammer and special shaped chisel, or other hard tool, un-stake the nut.
Remove the nut, and grease the face of the nut (NOT the threads) with a thin coat of wheel bearing grease. (note: the nut MUST be greased or the torque setting is useless)
Re-install the nut, and torque it to 220.
On ORIGINAL nut AND TORQUE, IF DONE CORRECTLY, the staked part of the nut will have moved from 12 oclock to 2 oclock. On older cars, it can even go to 3 oclock.
Re-stake the nut in its new position with a hammer and dull chisel.
Axle nuts not tight enough from factory. Covers all s2ks, 2000-2009. Even if you have no issues, all s2ks should have the "Axle nut tsb" performed. Cars that have not had it done are almost certain to develop shifting hubs, then worn hubs, then destroyed bearings.
First off, DO NOT buy new nuts...you'll see why soon.
The nut has a bent over part called a stake. The staked part of the nut is bent into a slot on the axle. This is a safety so the nut cant come loose. Using a hammer and special shaped chisel, or other hard tool, un-stake the nut.
Remove the nut, and grease the face of the nut (NOT the threads) with a thin coat of wheel bearing grease. (note: the nut MUST be greased or the torque setting is useless)
Re-install the nut, and torque it to 220.
On ORIGINAL nut AND TORQUE, IF DONE CORRECTLY, the staked part of the nut will have moved from 12 oclock to 2 oclock. On older cars, it can even go to 3 oclock.
Re-stake the nut in its new position with a hammer and dull chisel.
Good Info! Thanks Billman250
10-09-2011, 06:25 PM
#30
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what if my axle nuts are at the 4 oclock on the passenger and 6 oclock on the drivers side? should i go by a tq wrench and a socket? also what mm of socket should i get?