To preface this story I currently have my transmission out and all proper new parts ordered to replace the clutch. My car is a Stock 2006 AP2, with about 105k miles

So about a month ago I went for a mountain drive take a turn, go to downshift and BAM, clutch hits the floor with ZERO resistance! I pull over, pop the hood, fluid levels are good in the reservoir. I can't get the car into any gear and wind up having the car towed to my girlfriend's place. The car sits overnight and I come out the next day, get in the car and the petal is still super loose in it but seems to engage when pressed to the floor and I am able to get the car into gear. I limp it home very carefully, keep in it 4th gear all the way back to my place, I exit the freeway on the way back to my place, I put it in natural and coast to the stop sign, now the car won't go into first, I finally get it into second and make it home. Steps I have taken to troubleshoot the problem below:

1. Inspected and replaced the master cylinder - No improvement
2. Inspect and replace the Salve - No improvement
3. Flush the clutch system completely and refill and bleed - No improvement
4. Replace the Clutch - In the process of doing this, awaiting OEM disk, OEM throwout bearing, OEM Pilot bearing, AP1 Flywheel. (probably going to order new Pressure Plate as well).

Pictures of all the clutch components below. Everything looks good to the eye, I measured the disk, it is still within the recommended specs per the Honda service manual.

I figured I would ask the group to see if there are any ideas about what could have happened or if there are other things I should look at while I have the transmission out and am replacing the clutch components. Thanks in advance for everyone's feedback, it's greatly appreciated.

S2k Clutch Pictures
https://photos.app.goo.gl/THLQcpmiN8BNxT9X7

 

When pressing the clutch pedal did the slave move and press on the fork?
Fork still looks like its in place and not broken in your pictures so for zero resistance to happen it sounds like a hydraulic problem.

 

Despite bleeding the system, sounds like air in the fluid. Maybe, a leak somewhere?

 

Likely some type of hydraulic issue. Clutch itself seems fine.

 

That's a great question, my dad was under the car when we were troubleshooting and he seemed to think it wasn't.
Yeah, I inspected the fork it looks perfectly fine. One thing I did notice after pulling everything apart was the lack of grease, however, the car does have 100k plus miles on it so I'm assuming the grease dissapates a bit after that amount of time.

 

Any known areas where the clutch line is prone to leaks or issues?

 

Splines looked kinda dry but the inside of the release bearing which is the most important still seems to hold functional grease.
It is very important that you only use Honda super urea grease again on reassembly.
If slave wasn't moving the fork then you probably pulled everything apart a bit premature, never hurts to get new stuff installed anyways though.
Check the release bearing guide for wear as well, it's pretty cheap so might want to change it if it isn't really smooth.

 

Just the CMC seal near the firewall.

It probably got low on fluid and succ'd some air in.

A 1 man bleeding procedure works 2X as well as a 2 man procedure. The math is staggering, I realise. But the lesson is to always use a 1 man bleeder.

 

As a bit of info, and I am not responsible for you messing up your car if you do it wrong. But if in a bad pinch and you cannot disengage the clutch on a manual transmission car .... and HAVE to get the car someone safer, then there is a way.

Shut car off.
If you can point it downhill, that is better
Put car in first gear
Push in clutch
Crank the starter
The car will lurch of course, but it will start and you will be moving

Avoid stopping if you have to or you will need to repeat (If you do stop, pop car into neutral, come to stop, then shut it off again)

you can shift through the gears without disengaging the clutch if you are good driving a manual.

I have driven a car 15 miles this way, half through traffic before.

If you have to stop twice in close proximity, best to let the starter cool before you start it again since you are putting more strain on it.

And as a note, some off road vehicles come with a clutch safety bypass for doing this on hills when offroading, so this is not unheard of.

 

^Lol...I drove a car from downtown Chicago (in rush hour) back to the burbies that way once.

Teh stressssss....