Clutch Fluid Change
#12
Moderator
Initial service:
-suck out old fluid
-clean res with paper towels till spotless
-fill it back up
you can be done here...this is where I recommend that you stop. Do the initial service every 3-6k miles. You'll soon learn the cleaner it is, the longer it stays cleaner
secondary service, only needed if changing over to ATE super blue:
-Do the initial service above, then open the bleeder and run some out till it turns blue. Keep an eye on the master at all times. The clean fluid that you just added will go through the system. DONT let it run dry.
At NO point will you ever need to pump or touch the clutch pedal.
-suck out old fluid
-clean res with paper towels till spotless
-fill it back up
you can be done here...this is where I recommend that you stop. Do the initial service every 3-6k miles. You'll soon learn the cleaner it is, the longer it stays cleaner
secondary service, only needed if changing over to ATE super blue:
-Do the initial service above, then open the bleeder and run some out till it turns blue. Keep an eye on the master at all times. The clean fluid that you just added will go through the system. DONT let it run dry.
At NO point will you ever need to pump or touch the clutch pedal.
#14
Moderator
Thanks just added so info on change intervals there ^
-Clutch fluid gets destroyed faster than any other fluid in the car
-it is not even part of Honda's maintenance, yet it has the most direct negative affect on the car.
It starts with dirty fluid, then low fluid, then notchly shifting, then 2nd gear grinds, then damaged 2nd gear syncros and gearsets.
Dont overlook this most important vital service.
-Clutch fluid gets destroyed faster than any other fluid in the car
-it is not even part of Honda's maintenance, yet it has the most direct negative affect on the car.
It starts with dirty fluid, then low fluid, then notchly shifting, then 2nd gear grinds, then damaged 2nd gear syncros and gearsets.
Dont overlook this most important vital service.
#15
awesome. thanks for the info. I'm going to do this today or Saturday. I have a track day coming up this Sunday and... I haven't changed my clutch fluid since 20K ago (when i bought the car a year ago) and have around 12-13 track days on the car so far. I've changed all other fluid several times (brakes, diff, trans).
#19
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I'm not sure how much of the fluid that is sitting right behind the piston you'll be flushing out by just flushing.
Because the bleeder is close to -and almost above - the slave fluid inlet.
That's whay I always remove the slave and push in the piston as far as it goes in with the bleeder open, letting the piston come back out with the bleeder closed (so the slave acts like a pump).
That way ALL my fluid is fresh for sure.
Its a lot more work but worth to me, working on my own car.
Because the bleeder is close to -and almost above - the slave fluid inlet.
That's whay I always remove the slave and push in the piston as far as it goes in with the bleeder open, letting the piston come back out with the bleeder closed (so the slave acts like a pump).
That way ALL my fluid is fresh for sure.
Its a lot more work but worth to me, working on my own car.
#20
Moderator
Yes that is a good idea.
But I don't want to advise anyone to do anything that could potentially get air in the system. Air is hard to remove on this car, and I don't want anyone bashing up their transmission due to air.
I estimate 80% of people who tried a complete flush will be back with another thread that says their clutch pedal feels like crap, and they've bled and bled but cannot get the pedal right.
But I don't want to advise anyone to do anything that could potentially get air in the system. Air is hard to remove on this car, and I don't want anyone bashing up their transmission due to air.
I estimate 80% of people who tried a complete flush will be back with another thread that says their clutch pedal feels like crap, and they've bled and bled but cannot get the pedal right.