S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Clutch free play - help!

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Old 06-22-2018, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by benboosted
I'm bummed to have an issue like this rear it's head just a couple days after buying it, but I'm determined to do whatever it takes to dial things in.
Not to worry. This will be fixed and it will be fine. I don't know how many miles you have on the odometer. But, no matter, everyone who get an S now is getting a used car. I think most people go through a period of time updating all the fluids, checking and adjusting valves, plugs, brakes, alignment, tires, etc. etc., to set a baseline on maintenance for your years of ownership. The thing is that if you do all this work over your first season, and make any needed repairs as well, you will end up with a wonderful car that gives you a lot of joy. And, if you keep up the maintenance and don't abuse the car, it will stay that way for a long long time.
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Old 06-22-2018, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Kazuken
One of the most common places to check to see if the CMC is going bad is if you see a sludgy build up from inside the cabin by the clutch pedal. If it is leaking, you will need to replace it sooner rather than later.
Thanks so much, I'll check that first thing tonight! I hope to not see any sludge
Old 06-22-2018, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by rpg51
Not to worry. This will be fixed and it will be fine. I don't know how many miles you have on the odometer. But, no matter, everyone who get an S now is getting a used car. I think most people go through a period of time updating all the fluids, checking and adjusting valves, plugs, brakes, alignment, tires, etc. etc., to set a baseline on maintenance for your years of ownership. The thing is that if you do all this work over your first season, and make any needed repairs as well, you will end up with a wonderful car that gives you a lot of joy. And, if you keep up the maintenance and don't abuse the car, it will stay that way for a long long time.
For sure. My long term optimism is unaffected I'm so stoked to finally own an S2k, I was just bummed to not get to drive it today cuz I'm a weenie
Old 06-22-2018, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by benboosted
Thanks so much, I'll check that first thing tonight! I hope to not see any sludge
When I got my ap1 with 90k miles on it, it had a leaky CMC. Symptoms was hard to shift into first and reverse. Kept noticing the fluid level being low... After finally reading up on the issue and driving longer than I should (5k miles on it) I was able to replace it... Not hard to replace, just annoying trying to work in the foot well.
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Old 06-22-2018, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Kazuken
When I got my ap1 with 90k miles on it, it had a leaky CMC. Symptoms was hard to shift into first and reverse. Kept noticing the fluid level being low... After finally reading up on the issue and driving longer than I should (5k miles on it) I was able to replace it... Not hard to replace, just annoying trying to work in the foot well.
I see what you mean, just watched a few youtube videos how to replace it which I'm sure I'll have to do but in the meantime I plan to do a flush and see how long the fluid level will last.
Old 06-22-2018, 05:10 PM
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quite often a leaky clutch m/c can be corrected by draining old fluid and swapping with new. Few people clean out the reservoir and drain the fluid in the clutch system so the buildup of deposits causes leaks, probably one of the most commonly neglected fluids on an s2k IMO. Get the deposits out of the reservoir (by sucking out with a turkey baster type tool and wipe interior clean), and fluid stream (by bleeding) and leakage at the clutch rod can often stop. I know mine did after I bought my car.
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Old 06-23-2018, 01:23 AM
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Your master is leaking. You can bring back enough hydraulic pressure to get you home by topping off the reservoir and pump the clutch repeatedly. When you get to this point bleeding and changing fluid may help but often the master will leak slowly regardless, and only a new one will stop it. That said, a leaky OEM master is still good, it just leaks.
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Old 06-23-2018, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by zeroptzero
quite often a leaky clutch m/c can be corrected by draining old fluid and swapping with new. Few people clean out the reservoir and drain the fluid in the clutch system so the buildup of deposits causes leaks, probably one of the most commonly neglected fluids on an s2k IMO. Get the deposits out of the reservoir (by sucking out with a turkey baster type tool and wipe interior clean), and fluid stream (by bleeding) and leakage at the clutch rod can often stop. I know mine did after I bought my car.
Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101
Your master is leaking. You can bring back enough hydraulic pressure to get you home by topping off the reservoir and pump the clutch repeatedly. When you get to this point bleeding and changing fluid may help but often the master will leak slowly regardless, and only a new one will stop it. That said, a leaky OEM master is still good, it just leaks.
I confirmed last night after work that my clutch master cylinder is in fact leaking exactly as described. So we bled/refilled and burped the system and I'm back on the road Been watching a few youtube videos on replacing the clutch m/c and it doesnt seem too hard so I'll attempt that soon, but in the meantime I'm just going to keep an eye on the fluid level to see how fast it's draining.

Any recommendations for places to source a new clutch m/c? OEM seems popular. Do we have any Honda OEM dealers that hook us up?
Old 06-23-2018, 09:46 AM
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Majestic Honda. A Honda dealer in RI that has an online parts dept, and good internet prices. They know this forum and have good customer service.

There are others, but since I'm on East coast, I use these guys.

If you ggogle majestic honda parts, their online site will come up.
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Old 06-23-2018, 09:53 AM
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A leaky master will only leak occasionally it won't pour out or anything. You can go a month before you need to top it off. For a while I would just go a month Turkey baste the old fluid out in new fluid give it 100 pumps then drain and fill again. Eventually I got sick of random gear cruch once every 150 shifts or so, just manned up and got a new master.
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