Clutch issues..
So a few weeks ago my 02 started barely going into gear. Got it into the garage and practically couldn’t get it into gear. My first thought was I should flush the fluid and bleed it, so I did. Then I couldn’t get into gear at all with clutch depressed. Fast forward I’ve now changed the slave, master, hose, and I have bled it 5x times different methods. Still will not disengage the clutch, I’m at a loss. The slave does move but it appears spongy or slow when inspected with dust boot removed. If I press on the clutch fork it feels solid and cannot be depressed.
Good chance you added a lot of air when changing hydraulic components. Still not bled. Leave pedal propped down overnight. Use a piece of wood, cut broomstick or whatever. Use another piece pf wood against seat to spread the load. Move seat forward to make sure its pressed to floor.
Then next day do the gravity bleed, and remove slave during process (but leave hose attached), so you can slowly rotate it around to let any trapped air make it up to bleeder and out. Attach a clear hose into empty bottle from bleeder.
I'm wondering if maybe your original problem was dropped spring on an aftermarket clutch disk. Then replacing hydraulic components added air and complicated diagnosis.
So lets see where you are after above thorough bleed.
Then next day do the gravity bleed, and remove slave during process (but leave hose attached), so you can slowly rotate it around to let any trapped air make it up to bleeder and out. Attach a clear hose into empty bottle from bleeder.
I'm wondering if maybe your original problem was dropped spring on an aftermarket clutch disk. Then replacing hydraulic components added air and complicated diagnosis.
So lets see where you are after above thorough bleed.
Just do a 1 man bleed with a vacuum hose and a bottle. It takes 2 mins and works most effectively, as it is the most simple/immediate method. Too many outside factors in other methods.
You said you changed the MC.
Did you properly set the freeplay?
What type of clutch is installed?
If it is NOT an actual Honda clutch...you should suspect it.
For OP and any future posters, hydraulic/clutch issues should be handled methodically.
Step 1 is just general visual inspection. Dont just start bleeding. Why does a sealed system need to be bled? Wtf happened? Is there a leak? A worn part?
If nothing is obvious...then
Step 2 is then to PROPERLY bleed the system.
Step 2.5 is to ensure proper pedal freeplay.
Now you've just set your "baseline".
Then drive and observe again. Does the problem return? Why? Find out why.
If nothing is obvious, there is a fairly unlikely reason that your hydraulic components are an issue. If they're genuine Honda...they should last a VERY long time unless you've done something dumb. Have you done something dumb? That should have been covered in the "wtf happened" part of step 1.
Are there aftermarket components? Especially an aftermarket replacement clutch? Suspect them. They're probably trash. Virtually all aftermarket replacement components belong in tbe trash. Did you put them on your car, mistaking the car for a trash can? If you google "trash can" and then compare the photo to your car...its not the same, eh?
Step 3 is to move on to inspecting/suspecting hydraulic components. Again...are they aftermarket? If so...have they expired or are they faulty? Doesn't matter if they're new. They're aftermarket. When you buy aftermarket...you're almost always buying a warranty...not a part.
Look for the movement of the slave cylinder. If its NOT moving properly, first re-check step 1 and 2.
If none of the above checks out....you may have a mechanical problem with the clutch or trans. These are the most inconvenient to fix...so knock out the easy stuff first.
If its a clutch or trans issue...start looking up the costs/procedures involved.
You said you changed the MC.
Did you properly set the freeplay?
What type of clutch is installed?
If it is NOT an actual Honda clutch...you should suspect it.
For OP and any future posters, hydraulic/clutch issues should be handled methodically.
Step 1 is just general visual inspection. Dont just start bleeding. Why does a sealed system need to be bled? Wtf happened? Is there a leak? A worn part?
If nothing is obvious...then
Step 2 is then to PROPERLY bleed the system.
Step 2.5 is to ensure proper pedal freeplay.
Now you've just set your "baseline".
Then drive and observe again. Does the problem return? Why? Find out why.
If nothing is obvious, there is a fairly unlikely reason that your hydraulic components are an issue. If they're genuine Honda...they should last a VERY long time unless you've done something dumb. Have you done something dumb? That should have been covered in the "wtf happened" part of step 1.
Are there aftermarket components? Especially an aftermarket replacement clutch? Suspect them. They're probably trash. Virtually all aftermarket replacement components belong in tbe trash. Did you put them on your car, mistaking the car for a trash can? If you google "trash can" and then compare the photo to your car...its not the same, eh?
Step 3 is to move on to inspecting/suspecting hydraulic components. Again...are they aftermarket? If so...have they expired or are they faulty? Doesn't matter if they're new. They're aftermarket. When you buy aftermarket...you're almost always buying a warranty...not a part.
Look for the movement of the slave cylinder. If its NOT moving properly, first re-check step 1 and 2.
If none of the above checks out....you may have a mechanical problem with the clutch or trans. These are the most inconvenient to fix...so knock out the easy stuff first.
If its a clutch or trans issue...start looking up the costs/procedures involved.
Last edited by B serious; Nov 28, 2019 at 09:23 AM.
Just do a 1 man bleed with a vacuum hose and a bottle. It takes 2 mins and works most effectively, as it is the most simple/immediate method. Too many outside factors in other methods.
You said you changed the MC.
Did you properly set the freeplay?
What type of clutch is installed?
If it is NOT an actual Honda clutch...you should suspect it.
For OP and any future posters, hydraulic/clutch issues should be handled methodically.
Step 1 is just general visual inspection. Dont just start bleeding. Why does a sealed system need to be bled? Wtf happened? Is there a leak? A worn part?
If nothing is obvious...then
Step 2 is then to PROPERLY bleed the system.
Step 2.5 is to ensure proper pedal freeplay.
Now you've just set your "baseline".
Then drive and observe again. Does the problem return? Why? Find out why.
If nothing is obvious, there is a fairly unlikely reason that your hydraulic components are an issue. If they're genuine Honda...they should last a VERY long time unless you've done something dumb. Have you done something dumb? That should have been covered in the "wtf happened" part of step 1.
Are there aftermarket components? Especially an aftermarket replacement clutch? Suspect them. They're probably trash. Virtually all aftermarket replacement components belong in tbe trash. Did you put them on your car, mistaking the car for a trash can? If you google "trash can" and then compare the photo to your car...its not the same, eh?
Step 3 is to move on to inspecting/suspecting hydraulic components. Again...are they aftermarket? If so...have they expired or are they faulty? Doesn't matter if they're new. They're aftermarket. When you buy aftermarket...you're almost always buying a warranty...not a part.
Look for the movement of the slave cylinder. If its NOT moving properly, first re-check step 1 and 2.
If none of the above checks out....you may have a mechanical problem with the clutch or trans. These are the most inconvenient to fix...so knock out the easy stuff first.
If its a clutch or trans issue...start looking up the costs/procedures involved.
You said you changed the MC.
Did you properly set the freeplay?
What type of clutch is installed?
If it is NOT an actual Honda clutch...you should suspect it.
For OP and any future posters, hydraulic/clutch issues should be handled methodically.
Step 1 is just general visual inspection. Dont just start bleeding. Why does a sealed system need to be bled? Wtf happened? Is there a leak? A worn part?
If nothing is obvious...then
Step 2 is then to PROPERLY bleed the system.
Step 2.5 is to ensure proper pedal freeplay.
Now you've just set your "baseline".
Then drive and observe again. Does the problem return? Why? Find out why.
If nothing is obvious, there is a fairly unlikely reason that your hydraulic components are an issue. If they're genuine Honda...they should last a VERY long time unless you've done something dumb. Have you done something dumb? That should have been covered in the "wtf happened" part of step 1.
Are there aftermarket components? Especially an aftermarket replacement clutch? Suspect them. They're probably trash. Virtually all aftermarket replacement components belong in tbe trash. Did you put them on your car, mistaking the car for a trash can? If you google "trash can" and then compare the photo to your car...its not the same, eh?
Step 3 is to move on to inspecting/suspecting hydraulic components. Again...are they aftermarket? If so...have they expired or are they faulty? Doesn't matter if they're new. They're aftermarket. When you buy aftermarket...you're almost always buying a warranty...not a part.
Look for the movement of the slave cylinder. If its NOT moving properly, first re-check step 1 and 2.
If none of the above checks out....you may have a mechanical problem with the clutch or trans. These are the most inconvenient to fix...so knock out the easy stuff first.
If its a clutch or trans issue...start looking up the costs/procedures involved.
I tried gravity feeding the slave cylinder with it uncounted and all the fluid came out air free. Clutch still won’t disengage so I think when I get time I’m going to go ahead and crack into it.














