Clutch slip after CDV Removal
04-25-2017, 06:43 PM
#11
Thread Starter
So I was able to spin the rod clockwise quite a bit before I encountered resistance, which to me says I had enough freeplay that that wasn't causing the slip.
Regardless I'm throwing a new clutch in on Saturday along with a Fidenza flywheel, at least I'll have the peace of mind the clutch has been done and I'll basically never have to do it again.
Regardless I'm throwing a new clutch in on Saturday along with a Fidenza flywheel, at least I'll have the peace of mind the clutch has been done and I'll basically never have to do it again.
04-26-2017, 08:04 AM
#12
So I was able to spin the rod clockwise quite a bit before I encountered resistance, which to me says I had enough freeplay that that wasn't causing the slip.
Regardless I'm throwing a new clutch in on Saturday along with a Fidenza flywheel, at least I'll have the peace of mind the clutch has been done and I'll basically never have to do it again.
Regardless I'm throwing a new clutch in on Saturday along with a Fidenza flywheel, at least I'll have the peace of mind the clutch has been done and I'll basically never have to do it again.
04-26-2017, 08:12 AM
#13
There is a decent difference in resistance in the rod freeplay and clutch master cylinder freeplay. I don't recommend doing this if you're not familiar with adjusting clutch pedal freeplay but you can actually feel these two resistances by spinning the master cylinder rod clockwise. The second you hit a slight amount of resistance you've eliminated rod freeplay. If you keep going further you will be removing the master cylinder freeplay. Once clutch master cylinder freeplay is gone it will be incredibly difficult to spin the master cylinder rod. At this point you're releasing the clutch..
I'd only recommend removing the rod freeplay...
I'd only recommend removing the rod freeplay...
You can also use this visual to tune your feel. Note the change in feel as you see the piston first start to move. Then you'll know for sure the feel being referred to above.
04-26-2017, 08:15 AM
#14
Thread Starter
04-26-2017, 10:28 AM
#15
The disc is usually what goes bad, and not because it's worn down or anything but rather because it glazes over. When you take it apart I bet you there's still plenty of meat on the clutch disk, once the friction material glazes over it starts to slip. You probably only need new bearings, and a new friction disk. I'm sure you already know about using the right grease in the right places, and how it's a good idea to replace the release bearing guide sleeve. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
04-26-2017, 11:22 AM
#16
Thread Starter
Thanks, I certainly don't trust myself to do it right. A couple friends (one used to be a Honda tech) agreed to do it with my help for filling up their liquor cabinet. I'm replacing everything with new oem aside from resurfacing a used AP1 flywheel, decided I didn't want to risk the Fidenza being too light since I'm in stop and go traffic a lot. Not super happy to be doing it since I've only had the car 3 months, but at least I'll know it's been done and never have to mess with it for another 10 years.
04-29-2017, 04:52 PM
#18
Oh wow! Down to the rivets, not something you see every day.
04-29-2017, 06:18 PM
#19
Thread Starter
I have no idea how it held on as long as it did. The consensus is that the CDV kind of hid the slippage. But it held pretty decently all the way to the end.
