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Clutch is slipping when shifting at redline... New clutch?

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Old 06-02-2013, 02:38 AM
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Check there is some play in the pushrod at the master cylinder end. If the rod is adjusted so there is preload on the pushrod the fluid in the clutch circuit cannot find its way back to the reservoir. When things get hot its like resting your foot on the clutch all the time. Can cause the clutch to slip like you describe ( as can too many miles on the clutch).
Old 06-04-2013, 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by chris_barry
Check there is some play in the pushrod at the master cylinder end. If the rod is adjusted so there is preload on the pushrod the fluid in the clutch circuit cannot find its way back to the reservoir. When things get hot its like resting your foot on the clutch all the time. Can cause the clutch to slip like you describe ( as can too many miles on the clutch).
Thanks I will check it out
Old 05-14-2019, 05:28 AM
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Bringing this thread back to life because I'm having the same symptoms... On my AP1! Ever since I purchased it last year at 133k miles. On the carfax it says that it had the transmission replaced at the Honda dealer, so I wonder if they put an AP2 transmission in there. My previous AP1 definitely felt lighter revving and never had the clutch slip at high RPMs...
Old 05-14-2019, 05:34 AM
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AFAIK, slipping clutch with revving = worn disc.
Old 05-14-2019, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by windhund116
AFAIK, slipping clutch with revving = worn disc.
I thought this for 20k miles but I just did the handbrake third gear test and I definitely stalled.
Old 05-14-2019, 06:26 AM
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Yeah, they may have done the heavier ap2 flywheel, and maybe even the ap2 slave cylinder with the delay valve. These will both have more tendency to slip at high rpm and sudden engagement than ap1.

They may have thought they were doing right for the car by replacing these parts with new. Would have been better to resurface ap1 flywheel and reuse ap1 slave cylinder.

To even confirm the ap2 flywheel will require dropping the trans. But if you live near billman I bet he could tell just from driving it which flywheel it has. He drives so many.

You can tell if they replaced the slave cylinder just by looking under the car. Ap1 is black, ap2 is aluminum.
Old 03-24-2021, 01:25 PM
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Hate to bring up an old thread, but figured i should mention i just got an s2k recently (2005/ap2) and was having this exact same issue. Removed the CDV and i no longer have the issue and shifting now feel completely normal, even at high rpm's.
Old 03-24-2021, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Gumbi
Hate to bring up an old thread, but figured i should mention i just got an s2k recently (2005/ap2) and was having this exact same issue. Removed the CDV and i no longer have the issue and shifting now feel completely normal, even at high rpm's.
Just keep an eye on it. I think the CDV may cause a worn clutch to slip a bit sooner, so it may still be getting closer to needing replaced. How many miles are on it? And how far do you have to release the pedal to engage the clutch?
Old 03-24-2021, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by engifineer
Just keep an eye on it. I think the CDV may cause a worn clutch to slip a bit sooner, so it may still be getting closer to needing replaced. How many miles are on it? And how far do you have to release the pedal to engage the clutch?
Clutch release point feel pretty normal tbh. Engages just as it should. The only difference is that i dont have the rev limiter spam into redline whenever i change gears quickly at high rpm's. The car is actually driving just as any other manual sports car i've driven. Currently the car has 105k mile on stock clutch (unsure if still original clutch).
Old 03-29-2021, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by dantediss
The cdv is only active for a second or 2 to save the clutch and trans. If under heavy load its slipping all the way to redline on a gearshift then thats not good. Im a bit confused if its the stock clutch or if you said you just replaced it. But if it was replaced you need to baby it for a few hundred miles to get it all situated before thrashing it.
Actually the CDV is there to save the diff by placing that strain on the clutch disc so it actually wears the disc out faster. I would delete an AP2's CDV and be attentive to good shifting technique instead.


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