Is this common?
When I'm was driving my car at 90+ degree the car overheated( I assume). The car lose power and jerks a bit at 3rd gear+ around 2000-3500rpm . The temperature gauge said it's not overheating. There were no check engine or anything. So I let the car rest a bit. Around 15-20mins I tried to turn on the car. The car won't turn on , it feel like it's struggling to start then give up. However, 30mins + I tried again and it start. I feel the car lose a bit of power around 2000-3500 but when I go over 3500 the car feel normal.
Please help if anyone knows what is going on.
The car have new battery, spark plugs, all maintenance done 2000m(5months ago).
the car have over heat problem before through the radiator sensor was bad. Changed it never overheat again.
I Checked for any melts wires or loss connectors. Everything seem fine
Please help if anyone knows what is going on.
The car have new battery, spark plugs, all maintenance done 2000m(5months ago).
the car have over heat problem before through the radiator sensor was bad. Changed it never overheat again.
I Checked for any melts wires or loss connectors. Everything seem fine
Doesn't seem like overheating, but can't be sure since it's overheated before. Definitely make sure there's no air in the coolant: with engine warm run heater at max -- air should be HOT, not just warm.
Next thing to check would be injectors. And if it's '00-'05 could also be MAP sensor.
Next thing to check would be injectors. And if it's '00-'05 could also be MAP sensor.
When was the last valve adjustment done?
Whenever you suspect overheating, turn heat on full blast and feel how hot it blows. If its not hot enough to be very uncomfortable holding your fingers right up to vent any length of time, its got air in the coolant and you need to shut it down asap.
When there is air in coolant, the temp gauge probably won't read hot, because not enough coolant to reach temp sensor. This is a case of gauge lying to you.
There also won't be enough coolant in heater coils to blow hot.
Air in coolant can go unchecked for a long time, then one day overheat and destroy engine.
Any time any work done with radiator or coolant, you NEED to make sure heat can blow burn fingers hot before you drive the car. If it can't, need to bleed coolant more.
Whenever you suspect overheating, turn heat on full blast and feel how hot it blows. If its not hot enough to be very uncomfortable holding your fingers right up to vent any length of time, its got air in the coolant and you need to shut it down asap.
When there is air in coolant, the temp gauge probably won't read hot, because not enough coolant to reach temp sensor. This is a case of gauge lying to you.
There also won't be enough coolant in heater coils to blow hot.
Air in coolant can go unchecked for a long time, then one day overheat and destroy engine.
Any time any work done with radiator or coolant, you NEED to make sure heat can blow burn fingers hot before you drive the car. If it can't, need to bleed coolant more.
When was the last valve adjustment done?
Whenever you suspect overheating, turn heat on full blast and feel how hot it blows. If its not hot enough to be very uncomfortable holding your fingers right up to vent any length of time, its got air in the coolant and you need to shut it down asap.
When there is air in coolant, the temp gauge probably won't read hot, because not enough coolant to reach temp sensor. This is a case of gauge lying to you.
There also won't be enough coolant in heater coils to blow hot.
Air in coolant can go unchecked for a long time, then one day overheat and destroy engine.
Any time any work done with radiator or coolant, you NEED to make sure heat can blow burn fingers hot before you drive the car. If it can't, need to bleed coolant more.
Whenever you suspect overheating, turn heat on full blast and feel how hot it blows. If its not hot enough to be very uncomfortable holding your fingers right up to vent any length of time, its got air in the coolant and you need to shut it down asap.
When there is air in coolant, the temp gauge probably won't read hot, because not enough coolant to reach temp sensor. This is a case of gauge lying to you.
There also won't be enough coolant in heater coils to blow hot.
Air in coolant can go unchecked for a long time, then one day overheat and destroy engine.
Any time any work done with radiator or coolant, you NEED to make sure heat can blow burn fingers hot before you drive the car. If it can't, need to bleed coolant more.
There are no air in the coolants because I did several of checks on the radiator check with the old and new sensor before everything.
Last edited by Bay2k; Jun 21, 2021 at 02:43 PM.
Doesn't seem like overheating, but can't be sure since it's overheated before. Definitely make sure there's no air in the coolant: with engine warm run heater at max -- air should be HOT, not just warm.
Next thing to check would be injectors. And if it's '00-'05 could also be MAP sensor.
Next thing to check would be injectors. And if it's '00-'05 could also be MAP sensor.
Trending Topics
Your heat should be hot at idle. If it gets significantly hotter while driving, you likely have air in the system.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post











