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I know I had plenty of free play in my clutch pedal so it should have been fully disengaging.
He said to disable the clutch switch and start the car in neutral if I go ACT PP because he said the old crank walk issues were from all the force pulling on a dry thrust bearing over and over. Anybody know anything about doing this?
Pedal freeplay or full disengagement has nothing to do with your type of failure.
As for bypassing the clutch interlock...use a momentary push button switch in place if your clutch interlock switch.
Currently, the clutch pedal pushes in the button/plunger when you push it all the way down. So......you can maybe just relocate (or buy another) clutch bypass switch so that you can operate it by pushing the button/plunger with your finger.
Don't just jumper the wires to disable it. Imagine that one day, someone is going to bump your start button while the car is on an alignment rack or something like that.
Pedal freeplay or full disengagement has nothing to do with your type of failure.
As for bypassing the clutch interlock...use a momentary push button switch in place if your clutch interlock switch.
Currently, the clutch pedal pushes in the button/plunger when you push it all the way down. So......you can maybe just relocate (or buy another) clutch bypass switch so that you can operate it by pushing the button/plunger with your finger.
Don't just jumper the wires to disable it. Imagine that one day, someone is going to bump your start button while the car is on an alignment rack or something like that.
That’s a good point about the button.
I was thinking heat could have had something to do with it. My flywheel has a hotspot on it but I don’t know if that was from what caused the failure or if it was a result after the failure. I thought maybe the clutch not fully disengaging between shifts could cause heat to build up. That or the clutch was slipping enough to create heat. I’ve only had one time where I know the clutch slipped but it only did it once. Still ridiculous to slip when I’m not turboed yet.
I will repeat that I really, REALLY hated this clutch. It engaged at the very top of the clutch pedal and it’s clutch buzz and rattling was just embarrassing. I never felt like the clutch felt consistent in how it engaged.
Maybe since it was slipping and engaging at the top of the pedal...it wasn't ever fully engaging.
Engaging as in clamping together when your foot is lifted OFF the clutch.
If it was slipping always, then it would be blue and torched looking.
Here's my exedy hyper single after 19K miles. Lot of it was track miles...but the street driving killed it. It started slipping in 6th gear on a road trip to/from California lol. I drove with a slipping clutch for a while after getting back from that trip. I finally just replaced it with stock. Anyway....this is a thoroughly abused clutch that had plenty of slip time. Including an all slip launch. It didn't explode.
I did ONCE get a 135K mile clutch to explode in a civic by sitting with the parking brake on and slipping it in 3rd gear at 6K RPM until the entire parking lot was full of clutch smoke. The disk shattered, IIRC.
You (and I?) are lucky that those pieces didn't come through the bell housing at high RPM.
6000RPM is 100 revs per second. So...they would be moving at a good rate.
Your pressure plate probably broke from stress...not heat. The iron likely had porosity or some other defect...or external damage.
Anyone running any type of puck clutch in an S2000 is almost guaranteed to break something. Even with oem HP. They are not meant for this car.
The only defect in that clutch is the manufacturer’s premise that it will work in a 9000rpm car. The instant-on shock load of the pucks is what broke the pressure plate. Be grateful it wasn’t 2nd gear, the number one casualty of a puck clutch.
And if you need that much bite due to 500+hp, the clutch itself will be the least of your problems. The transmission, dif, and axles will be next to break.
Why not make the car 400hp and usable, instead of riding the mechanical limits of the car?
Last edited by Billman250; 11-29-2017 at 04:17 AM.
Anyone running any type of puck clutch in an S2000 is almost guaranteed to break something. Even with oem HP. They are not meant for this car.
The only defect in that clutch is the manufacturer’s premise that it will work in a 9000rpm car. The instant-on shock load of the pucks is what broke the pressure plate. Be grateful it wasn’t 2nd gear, the number one casualty of a puck clutch.
And if you need that much bite due to 500+hp, the clutch itself will be the least of your problems. The transmission, dif, and axles will be next to break.
Why not make the car 400hp and usable, instead of riding the mechanical limits of the car?
This aftermarket "hot-rod" stuff is nuts. Somewhere in Japan, the original engineers of this car are dying a slow death. I suppose, if you really wanted a car with 400+ BHP... look for a reliable, designed 400+ BHP car.
Anyone running any type of puck clutch in an S2000 is almost guaranteed to break something. Even with oem HP. They are not meant for this car.
The only defect in that clutch is the manufacturer’s premise that it will work in a 9000rpm car. The instant-on shock load of the pucks is what broke the pressure plate. Be grateful it wasn’t 2nd gear, the number one casualty of a puck clutch.
And if you need that much bite due to 500+hp, the clutch itself will be the least of your problems. The transmission, dif, and axles will be next to break.
Why not make the car 400hp and usable, instead of riding the mechanical limits of the car?
I've been a little north of 500 for about a year now. The clutch was def. the center of my problems on the drivetrain. Surprisingly the diff hasn't exploded yet. I've been on sprung FX500 for most of the time. It's grabby but it's doable as I daily my car in atlanta traffic everyday.
Anyone running any type of puck clutch in an S2000 is almost guaranteed to break something. Even with oem HP. They are not meant for this car.
The only defect in that clutch is the manufacturer’s premise that it will work in a 9000rpm car. The instant-on shock load of the pucks is what broke the pressure plate. Be grateful it wasn’t 2nd gear, the number one casualty of a puck clutch.
And if you need that much bite due to 500+hp, the clutch itself will be the least of your problems. The transmission, dif, and axles will be next to break.
Why not make the car 400hp and usable, instead of riding the mechanical limits of the car?
I honestly will probably end up between 400-500hp. My goal was to get 500hp on 93 pump but I want the tune to be safe and not pushing it to the limits of the fuel. My engine is a sleeved F24 with 9.0:1 turbo pistons. John at InlinePRO seems to think I’d get 500 easy on 93. I’ll be happy with 400-500 though for more reliability. I plan to fully upgrade the diff, axels and transmission eventually. I plan on doing the 9” Ford conversion with upgraded axels and driveshaft. That’s down the road though. I think you’re right about aiming under 500 until after I upgrade the drivetrain. I want to go ACT/OEM for the clutch because I want great drivability but will that even work with 400-500hp? Or should I say could it handle around 350lbs of torque?
11-28-2017, 11:52 AM
