Ap12000

Hello everyone, I replaced a dry rotten cracked leaking coant hose on my 2000 ap1 that runs from under the throttle body to the head by the bleeder. So I replace it, put my no spill funnel on the radiator, fill in with coolant with the heat on high and wait. Rev it up every now and then to speed up the process. Well after about 20mins it's up to operating temp (3 bar) and there is a steady stream of extremely tiny bubbles coming up and a occasional large bubble. When I rev it up there are a few more larger bubbles. Heats pretty damn hot and it never went over the operating temp. I never did open the little bleeder screw in the front of the engine. In the last year I haven never had an overheating issue or lack of heat. When I did the ap1 valve spring retainers and keepers last week the spark plugs looked just fine. Check oil and is clean as can be. I've had her in storage since the beginning of November and started working on it a few weeks ago. Took it out for a short spin after the coolant bleeding and no issues. Does it sound like there is an issue with the bubbles or should it be okay? I've been researching the hell out of this thing and I'm just paranoid there is a head gasket issue

darcyw

IF you are getting HOT air out of the vents- I mean hot enough to be uncomfortable with your hand over it, with the fan on, you should be good.

BUT, when the car is cold, the rad cap is off, and your no spill funnel is ON again, I put a small clear tub over the bleeder screw and crack it open. then, I gently SQUEEZE the rad hose until some coolant rises up the tube- then I close the bleeder screw- REMEMBER, you don't need much torque to close it. Then with the vent screw closed, I squeeze the rad hose again to see if coolant rises back into the spill funnel.

if so, then button it up and be happy for 5 years until you need to do the change again. Just remember, the heat coming out the vents needs to be HOT if all is good.

darcy

Ap12000

Awesome thank you. Yea the heats pretty hot with your hand on the vents, cant keep it there too long. I will give it a shot this evening!

VashTheStampede

Follow the procedure exactly as described in the FAQ. Another tip that I wasn't sure got mentioned, was that the radiator fill (in my car at least) may need to be higher in the air than the rear bleed screw (don't open this bleed screw, ever). I was in the same boat, getting constant tiny bubbles, so I jacked the car wayyyyyy up and that worked all the bubbles out quickly. My fluid change was the result of a split in a tiny coolant hose wayyyyy under the intake manifold.

Kyle

Did it cost six billion double dollars to replace the hose?

VashTheStampede

lmao... weirdly, no! It was 19508-PCX-000, and once I realized where it was, I just replaced the rectifier in my alternator while I was in there. If was kinda fun.... at least as fun as coolant spraying everywhere and nearly breaking a finger can be.

Car Analogy

Is it possible bubbles are coming from where the lisle funnel attaches to radiator, and not from the coolant itself? Like maybe an imperfect seal on the 'cap' used by the funnel.