Could AUT cooling plate be useless?
Hi Guys,
I have read probably every related threads on this forum, honda-tech and s2000.com but still don't have an answer, so here it goes..
Last night I finally received my K&N FIPK and an AUT cooling plate.
I installed the FIPK but while testing hood fitment I noticed that the way the hood frame is built, it does pretty much the same thing than the cooling plate is supose to do, if not better as it seems to allow for more air flow. The way the hood is made seems to seal and route the air from the bumper front opening to the intake, like what the cooling plate is suppose to do which make it useless other than for the look (which I don't like anyways).
Anyone ever noticed that and looked into it in greater details?
Also, one last thing, it seems that you have to remove he bumper support metal piece to install the plate unless the hood won't close properly... is it just me or you really need to remove it?
Thank you!
I have read probably every related threads on this forum, honda-tech and s2000.com but still don't have an answer, so here it goes..
Last night I finally received my K&N FIPK and an AUT cooling plate.
I installed the FIPK but while testing hood fitment I noticed that the way the hood frame is built, it does pretty much the same thing than the cooling plate is supose to do, if not better as it seems to allow for more air flow. The way the hood is made seems to seal and route the air from the bumper front opening to the intake, like what the cooling plate is suppose to do which make it useless other than for the look (which I don't like anyways).
Anyone ever noticed that and looked into it in greater details?
Also, one last thing, it seems that you have to remove he bumper support metal piece to install the plate unless the hood won't close properly... is it just me or you really need to remove it?
Thank you!
When installing an airflow MOD like this you would never really notice a difference. Yea it might direct the air a little better kind of like a snorkel but in my opinion it was more of a visual thing. And yes that little metal strip has to be removed to install the plate. Also i made a "bumper scoop" that leads up to the AUT plate scoop which helps direct the air up better. I tested it by blowing air into the front bumper and it travels up through and out of the AUT scoop very well. Hope this helps
Custom Bumper Scoop
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/819...-bumper-scoop/
Custom FIPK Shield
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/841...k-heat-shield/
Air Flow Test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_znmVmWPYTY
Custom Bumper Scoop
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/819...-bumper-scoop/
Custom FIPK Shield
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/841...k-heat-shield/
Air Flow Test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_znmVmWPYTY
To understand what effects if any cooling plates and intakes have for the S you need to understand how air moves into and through the S.
The OEM design is a cold air intake that pulls air from the nose ahead of the radiator and shunts it up and over the engine, using the factory "cooling plate" that sits above the radiator and has air vents on each side. One, this puts cold air into the intake despite the fact that there is no explicit pipe that runs right from the intake to the outside of the car - good design. Two, it moves air over the entire engine bay to help push post-rad air down and out under the car. Snorkels are useless and effect the positive/negative pressure system that is part of the factory design imo.
There are different cooling plates, and imo they are mostly for looks (looking cool, not cooling anything). (I have one, btw - AUT with the duct for fitting up to a stock airbox - I even have a DIY for the install for it on here)
The aftermarket cooling plate mostly keeps dirt from getting over the engine and the inside of the hood. A plate like the AUT design allows a high-pressure airstream to hit the stock airbox location, so I see it as a benefit. The drawback is less airflow over the rest of the engine, but I don't think that is a big concern.
Driving at 60 mph, there is something like 150 psi on the front of the car - it is a huge pressure that moves huge volumes of air through the engine bay and over the intake opening. There is really no need for special snorkels to help this out - the air is getting through just fine. The aftermarket cooling plate is good for looks mainly, and also directing where you want that cold, over-engine air to go.
And yes, when installing a cooling plate, it replaces the metal support for the weather stripping.
The OEM design is a cold air intake that pulls air from the nose ahead of the radiator and shunts it up and over the engine, using the factory "cooling plate" that sits above the radiator and has air vents on each side. One, this puts cold air into the intake despite the fact that there is no explicit pipe that runs right from the intake to the outside of the car - good design. Two, it moves air over the entire engine bay to help push post-rad air down and out under the car. Snorkels are useless and effect the positive/negative pressure system that is part of the factory design imo.
There are different cooling plates, and imo they are mostly for looks (looking cool, not cooling anything). (I have one, btw - AUT with the duct for fitting up to a stock airbox - I even have a DIY for the install for it on here)
The aftermarket cooling plate mostly keeps dirt from getting over the engine and the inside of the hood. A plate like the AUT design allows a high-pressure airstream to hit the stock airbox location, so I see it as a benefit. The drawback is less airflow over the rest of the engine, but I don't think that is a big concern.
Driving at 60 mph, there is something like 150 psi on the front of the car - it is a huge pressure that moves huge volumes of air through the engine bay and over the intake opening. There is really no need for special snorkels to help this out - the air is getting through just fine. The aftermarket cooling plate is good for looks mainly, and also directing where you want that cold, over-engine air to go.
And yes, when installing a cooling plate, it replaces the metal support for the weather stripping.
it might just be that the stock air dam is pretty well designed, and messing with it might not lead to any benefit. I kinda like the Allocraft cooling plate best , it has air vents to direct air towards the air box, looks dam nice too.
thx for your replies.
When summer will arrive I will test the temperature in the K&N box with and without the plate, this will not cover the 'flow' aspect but it will tell us if it does anything to the temperature at least.
For those who have or had the plate, have you noticed a difference in the sound? Some claim that the intake is quiet with the plate.
When summer will arrive I will test the temperature in the K&N box with and without the plate, this will not cover the 'flow' aspect but it will tell us if it does anything to the temperature at least.
For those who have or had the plate, have you noticed a difference in the sound? Some claim that the intake is quiet with the plate.
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Fwiw, cooling plates are about pushing air through the radiator - the idea is more efficient cooling of the radiator under duress, so I doubt you'll be able to test for much unless you are measuring downstream coolant temps.
Measuring air temps in the K&N box is not going to tell you anything.
Measuring air temps in the K&N box is not going to tell you anything.
Fwiw, cooling plates are about pushing air through the radiator - the idea is more efficient cooling of the radiator under duress, so I doubt you'll be able to test for much unless you are measuring downstream coolant temps.
Measuring air temps in the K&N box is not going to tell you anything.
Measuring air temps in the K&N box is not going to tell you anything.
If the AUT is not gonna provide cooler air to the intake than I guess it is useless cause I am pretty sure the plate actualy restrict flow compared to stock... I will take picture later today to explain better what I mean.









