I've got a P0336 code with Votech supercharger. The code is CPK Senosr Intermittent Interruption. My CPK sensor reads 2550 Ohms, and the manual says its supposed to be between 1850-2450 ohms.

Is 2550 ok? What have you guys measured?

Thanks!

 

The CPK is the crank position sensor on the front of the engine. The connector that the reading is taken from is on the top front of the engine in-between the valve cover and throttle body.

Is 100ohms too much out of spec??

Thanks.

 

There's perhaps one person who can answer that question (Slow2k) and even that would be a guess I'll bet. I'd be willing to bet the only troubleshooting you'll be able to do is swap and see if the problem goes away.

If Honda says it's out of range, I'd say replace it. The particular code means it's weak so, being a bit out of range might explain that.

 

I'd be willing to bet it's not the CKP sensor, bu the timing controller wiring into the CKP input to the PCM.

Double check your wiring against the Vortech diagram, the written instructions are INCORRECT. Also make sure your splices are either soldered and heat shrinked, or with heat shrink crimp butt connectors.

I can also reccomend using a VAFC PnP harness to wire in the controller, it's much easier to make ther connections on a table than in the fetal position under the dash. as an added bonus, you can take the tiing controller out easily to verirify if the problem is in the controller and harness, or the stock parts on the car.

What kind of meter are you using? I've seen cheap multimeters that can't measure the same resistance 2x. If the internal battery is low the readings will be off as well.

 

Thanks Guys, I appreciate the help!

Ek9: The sad thing is I've measured sensors on other types of cars and sometimes they too are slightly out of spec. I would go buy a new sensor and it would read exactly the same. Thats why I was asking to be sure. I didn't want to special order a another $100 sensor if mine is fine.


slows2k: I did notice that there is an extra set of yellow wires on the diagram that are not mentioned in the instruction text in the manual. Is this what your refering too?

I checked all of the connections against the schematic and I believe they are on the correct wires. All of the butt crimp connections are solid. I examined all of the splices and they seem okay but they are not soldered. So, I decided to start the car while I fiddled with them to see if the code would throw again. I figured if it would throw while I was pulling and moving the connections then the connections must be bad. It didn't. So I took it for a 50 mile spirited drive and it hasn't tripped yet. Me fiddling with the wires may have re-made a connection or the timing box could just be flakey.

I'll solder up the wires, and if it happens again I think I should remove the timing box to see if it will still happen.

Which brings me to my next issue that I'm contemplating. If the timing box is bad or goes bad I'm beginning to think I can just leave it out permanently. From what I've read this box only pulls a few extra degrees of timing over the ECU above 6000RPM. That seems pretty worthless. I'm begining to think this was just a safety net used by Vortech. The stock ECU has a knock sensor and should be able to pull timing as needed, doesn't it work for the comptech?
I talked with someone who has permanetly removed the timing box on a MY01, has driven the car hard, and had no problems, yet. The only concern I still have is that I read the MY02, my car, has more aggressive timing, it might just need that dang box. When my knock sensor was broke the car was running 22 degrees advanced according to the OBD tool. Now that I'm thinking about it, the job of the timing box is to fake out the ECU, so in reality the actuall timing at the engine should be less than that observed at the OBD. Correct me if I'm wrong but the timing box would need to add a few degrees to the signal so that the ECU would then need to pull timing back a few degrees from its max allowable under load number. Does this sound right?

The harness is a good idea. I was thinking that maybe I might need to buy a VFAC but I'm not sure its worth it. Does it come with the harness? My SAE WHP is right at 296. Would adding a VFAC and maybe injectors allow me to step up my boost slightly?

For the measurement I'm using a Fluke 26III.

Sorry for the long post.