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...or place the momentary switch at knee level, and use knee to press it, so starting is still one handed. You could use a button with a large, flat surface so its easy to hit it.
...or place the momentary switch at knee level, and use knee to press it, so starting is still one handed. You could use a button with a large, flat surface so its easy to hit it.
I would be worried about hitting it with my knee while driving. I know it wouldn't do anything really but I still prefer to avoid any obstructions as well.
Actually you know what would be really cool, if the switch/button was in the shift knob. That way you would be able to verify the transmission is in neutral and then press the button in the knob along with the start button. I have seen shift knobs that have a button under the top of the knob that would be good for this. Probably not what I would do as I like the OEM knob but not a terrible idea.
Another idea would be to wire in to the cruise control switches on the wheel. You would have to reverse the polarity as those switches provide hot vs ground signal but it would not require any other switches to be added to the car anywhere.
I just ordered an ELK-912 relay module. I am going to use it to wire into the cruise control SET button the steering wheel via the wiring harness under the dash. The idea being that when you push and hold this button the relay module will fire and short the two wires going to the clutch interlock switch together. The net effect is that you will be able to push and hold the SET button and then push the START button and the engine will start. The clutch interlock will also function as normal so untrained users will be none the wiser.
If you wanted to have this also function as a dead-man's switch/kill switch you could do that too. Instead of just tapping the interlock switch wires you would just cut them or disconnect the switch. Then the only way for the starter to crank would be to push and hold the SET button first (not exactly obvious). Would serve as a pretty nice immobilizer.
Hmm. After looking closely at the car wire diagrams I may run into a glitch (see below image from the wiring manual). My plan was to tap the LTGRN/RED wire at connector C404 and use it to drive the coil side of the relay module. I would hook the neg side of the coil to the BLK wire on the clutch interlock switch (Ground). I would connect the two wires from the interlock switch to the COM and the N/O taps on the relay module. The idea would be that when you press the SET button on the steering wheel it would energize the new relay module and close the circuit between the interlock wires thereby enabling the starter.
The thing I noticed is that the circuit for the cruise buttons is powered THROUGH the horn relay. The issue I foresee is that wiring it in this manner may result in the horn relay energizing when the SET button in pressed. I am not sure if the current flow through the new relay (~30mA) will be enough to energize the horn relay. If this happens I may have another option; I could use an ELK-924 relay module. This module only requires ~1mA to activate its relays. I could also go back to the original plan of using the brake position switch but I like the idea of using the cruise buttons as they are not used much which would save of cycles of the relay.
Well in case anyone is still reading, I did it. I was able to cram my butt under the steering column and got the wiring in. I actually tapped into the wire for the VSA OFF button. That button goes to ground when pressed making the wiring even simpler. I just attached a jumper between the white wire in connector C303 and the light blue wire coming off the interlock switch (about 6 inches of wire total). With that in place I was able to start the car by simply pressing and holding the VSA button and then hitting the START button. It does switch off the VSA but that is simple to turn back on after the engine is started. One thing I need to do is get a diode to add into the jumper. Without that stepping on the clutch results in the VSA switching off or on. The diode will prevent this by only allowing the current to flow in one direction through the jumper.
Decided I actually needed to get a real reading from my car and so I bought the magnetic dial indicator from Amazon. However, I can't seem to find out how to get this thing into the bay where I can get a reading. Can anyone show me how to place the indicator to get a good reading? Thanks!
Decided I actually needed to get a real reading from my car and so I bought the magnetic dial indicator from Amazon. However, I can't seem to find out how to get this thing into the bay where I can get a reading. Can anyone show me how to place the indicator to get a good reading? Thanks!
Bummer doesn't look I took any pictures. Do you have stock air box in? I did mine with K&N FIPK and was able to mount on the cross member I believe.
Wait...here's a pic of the device in place during measurement. Believe the magnet is attached to the crank bolt or damper and the measurement needle resting against the engine block.
10-18-2017, 10:12 AM
