LBPS2K06

Got it. Took a 10" breaker bar on the crank pulley tool and rested it on the front crossmember on the passenger side. Had to get a 4' 3/4" breaker with a 5" extension to reach the bolt front the front of the steering box. Gave it a couple hard yanks and it went "pop". I think I am going to frame this bolt!

YELLOW JACKET

success!

slipstream444

Dug this up.
I recently bought the ATI street harmonic balancer/crank pulley and discovered how stubborn the crank pulley bolt on my ‘02 was while attempting to remove the OEM pulley. Making matters worse, the OEM balancer/pulley was terribly rusted (previous owner drove this car in MD/DC winters - and apparently through lots of salt). As a result, the Honda tool would not seat properly. Given essentially one option remaining, I resorted to trying a Kobalt 24V impact, and then a plug-in impact with no luck. Both attempts even started to round the square corners of the 3” extension to the point I had to replace it. Billman recommended the Milwaukee 18V high torque 1/2” impact (1400 lb ft breaking torque). That wrench removed the bolt in about 2 seconds. Amazing power and it has almost no snap-back.

outeiroj

^ will solve your problem if you have air

i personally use
https://www.ebay.com/p/Crankshaft-Bo...3011231&chn=ps

with zero issues. i bought mine for matco for a little more but the piece of mind of being able to warranty it out if i manager to break it

jinn

That's what I'm using (Harmonic Socket) w/ a Milwaukee FUEL 2962P-20 (650 lbs reverse) + High Output battery
The OEM Crank Pulley is in real good @ 192 lbs torque spec

Billman250

Never ever heat that bolt!! There is no loctite here, the bolt threads are clean oiled threads. It’s just tight. Heat is for rust, which you will never find on this bolt (speaking of the threads inside tthe crankshaft)

A Honda crank holder, and a 3/4 drive, 4’ breaker is the proper tool. It will break loose every time.

RolanTHUNDER

I think I had the most stubborn S2000 crank pulley bolt until recently. What worked in the end (after all the freeze tricks, Lisle socket, Milwaukee Fuel gun, etc) was a 1" breaker bar and a long extension plus two big guys pulling on it. The 1" bar doesn't flex under torque like the standard 1/2" does meaning more torque is applied to the bolt. U can try plenty of WD40 or similar penetrating oils to condition the bolt prior to giving this a shot. I don't know if that actually worked or not in my case but I can tell you one thing, this forum and all the S2K veterans here knew about my struggle

randomwalk101

Milwaukee 2867-20 1-inch impact will jap that thing off in about 1.2 second.

Billman250

Not while the engine is in the car it won’t.

ApexHunter

^^^ This is the method I used. It came off very easily.

FWIW I have a Milwaukee 2767 (1/2", rated @ 1400 ft lb breakaway). I looked at this option just for kicks and it requires various extensions to get in there...the 2767 is a big gun. Then it's likely to end up beating the bolt up between the weird angle and all the slack in the extensions. Possible yes, but glad I didn't have to do that.