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#2
Sounds like the aftermarket clutch you put on the car has a stronger pressure plate to keep the friction disc in contact with the flywheel and the OE Clutch Master Cylinder bore is not large enough to create enough pressure to properly press the clutch fork, and disengage the pressure plate. I believe the OE bore for the Clutch MC is 7/8, perhaps try moving up to a 1" bore MC before dropping the trans.
#4
Thanks.
This only happened recently, the previous 7k miles were good. I'm not sure but I dont think it was the aftermarket clutch ruined the master, I swapped master and slave because the master leaked a little.
The clutch I got was only a stage one, I dont know if that was the problem, can you give me a link for the mc you referred?
This only happened recently, the previous 7k miles were good. I'm not sure but I dont think it was the aftermarket clutch ruined the master, I swapped master and slave because the master leaked a little.
The clutch I got was only a stage one, I dont know if that was the problem, can you give me a link for the mc you referred?
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Sticking only exists at the top of the pedal, that means every time I step on to the clutch pedal, no matter the car is cold or warm, neutral or in gear, I have to push it with a little extra force to let the clutch disengage. Everything else is fine, pedal responses fast, bounces back with full pressure and no problem with gear changing. One thing to note is its harder to disengage it with higher rpms. When I tried stepping on the clutch at 7k rpm, I almost had to stamp the pedal to let it disengage.
Not misaligned with the master, no worn pivots there, ect.
If that all checks out, it could be that the throw-out bearing is not sliding smooth on its guide.
It could be a lube (during installation) fail: if the groove in the throw-out is dry, or filled with old, dirty (clutch dust etc..) grease this can happen.
I would leave the master clutch cylinder alone, it has nothing to do with pressure.
Actually, a larger diameter master only makes it harder to press the pedal, it will give you more travel though.
You do not need either one.
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Originally Posted by redbadge' timestamp='1372106335' post='22628163
Sticking only exists at the top of the pedal, that means every time I step on to the clutch pedal, no matter the car is cold or warm, neutral or in gear, I have to push it with a little extra force to let the clutch disengage. Everything else is fine, pedal responses fast, bounces back with full pressure and no problem with gear changing. One thing to note is its harder to disengage it with higher rpms. When I tried stepping on the clutch at 7k rpm, I almost had to stamp the pedal to let it disengage.
Not misaligned with the master, no worn pivots there, ect.
If that all checks out, it could be that the throw-out bearing is not sliding smooth on its guide.
It could be a lube (during installation) fail: if the groove in the throw-out is dry, or filled with old, dirty (clutch dust etc..) grease this can happen.
I would leave the master clutch cylinder alone, it has nothing to do with pressure.
Actually, a larger diameter master only makes it harder to press the pedal, it will give you more travel though.
You do not need either one.
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