That'd be pretty useful if we drove around without wheels

Is this called hub horsepower instead of wheel horsepower?

 

I like the Hub HP term......

 

I guess it would be hub horsepower. However, it does eliminate some variables, and gets closer to the flywheel figures. How much better could a chassis dyno be than that.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by beroznikmal
[B]gernby,

 

dave22, thanks for stating the obvious.

Back to the topic.

I'm not a dyno expert here but if you have more "variables" that can skew the data, then yes, this is more useful.

I also don't have any vested interest in, nor do I sell the product but for more accurate numbers, I'd rather use the dynapack.

Yet another quote from their site:

-Preciseness of engine results - no inertia to mask engine faults
-Repeatability - accurate back to back runs within 0.3%
-Portability - on and off site
-Stress free - 2 to 30 seconds runs for all results pf power, torque gases & data acquisition
-Minimal noise level - no tyre interface
-Virtually no installation and running costs
-Cost effective - chassis and engine dyno capable
-Flexible, easy to use software

Beroz...like evo said...spill the beans!

 

Actually I have a set up like everyone else...I/h/e...my baseline run (stock) was ~ 19? HP...I then dynoed after installing the I/h/e, the car ran at 20? HP ... its been along time...I'll have to check tomorrow at the office..... I then had the VACF installed....had it dyno tuned. After many many runs....the best run was 214..HP.... Thats it...no biggy.... I will upload the dyno plots by Wednesday for those non believers....
As I have mentioned earlier... I will be installing the Toda cams on Saturday... I am expecting at least 10 HP. This should bring me to about 224 HP (MD) which is about 246 HP on the dyno jet.....
In the near future I have plans to do some crazy internal work..... As of now I have been talking to many people about many different options.....
Please stay tuned......
Beroz....

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by beroznikmal
[B]Actually I have a set up like everyone else...I/h/e...my baseline run (stock) was ~ 19? HP...I then dynoed after installing the I/h/e, the car ran at 20? HP

 

Yes tuning will be done after each install. As much as I would like high HP numbers, my main goal is to increase the area under the power curve.....Thanks

But back to the topic of discussion........It can be concluded purely based on numbers that the mustang Dyno (MD) reports the least amount of HP....
Dynojet = MD * 110%
Dynopack = Dynojet *110%

 

it may be obvious, but it's entirely relevant to this thread. the dynojet is a more accurate representation of the real-world performance of the vehicle. the dynapack is a more accurate representation of the power of the engine itself. 40 pounds of wheel may be a 'variable' but it is a real factor in the performance of the vehicle.

whether you want to measure that or not is up to you.

 

I have read that it is typical to see a 20% loss in HP from engine to wheel....I suspect that using lighter fly wheel, drive shaft and things like that will decrease this loss... Has anyone tried it?
Also does the weight of my wheel set up make a diff on a mustang dyno... Example, If my base runs were done using OEM wheel and I then replace the OEM with some heavy ass 18" wheels.....
Thanks
Beroz