DIY Diff Replacement
12-07-2014, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by surferboy120' timestamp='1418007743' post='23430095
Anyone know the part number from Majestic Honda for the driveshaft bolts? 6 bolts that take a 6mm allen socket that hold the driveshaft to the diff? I want to have some on hand in case they strip out on me. I checked majestics and I am not sure which part it is so if you have ordered them and know the part number I would appreciate it.
If your looking for the AP1 bolts they are listed under propeller shaft Majestic number is, 90183-S2A-000 005 006 BOLT, SOCKET (8X65) 3.18 2.13 Qty:
You can also buy them from a local hardware store the size is 8mm x 65mm long 125 fine pitch
Good luck
12-07-2014, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by surferboy120' timestamp='1418007743' post='23430095
Anyone know the part number from Majestic Honda for the driveshaft bolts? 6 bolts that take a 6mm allen socket that hold the driveshaft to the diff? I want to have some on hand in case they strip out on me. I checked majestics and I am not sure which part it is so if you have ordered them and know the part number I would appreciate it.
If your looking for the AP1 bolts they are listed under propeller shaft Majestic number is, 90183-S2A-000 005 006 BOLT, SOCKET (8X65) 3.18 2.13 Qty:
You can also buy them from a local hardware store the size is 8mm x 65mm long 125 fine pitch
Good luck
I just found the bolts for the AP2 I appreciate it.
90182-S2A-A00 005 006 BOLT, SOCKET (10X62) 3.92 2.63 Qty:
I never would have found it being that it is called propeller shaft... LOL thanks again
12-12-2014, 06:44 PM
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Thanks again for the input I will be swapping in the 4.10 stock unit this weekend so I can send the 4.56 to you for the upgrade work.
02-20-2016, 06:29 AM
#65
Firstly Great post and has helped me out massively over the past two days when trying to remove my diff and refit a 4.56 diff.
It kind of makes me laugh when i see photos of the underneath of a US car with hardly any rust on it. I ran into quite a few issues during the removal and refitting.
- 4x 17mm bolts that hold the diff to the aluminium mounting arm stripped the threads out and were so tight that my electric impact gun couldn't undo them, I had to do every turn by hand with a breaker bar. Each one had to be re tapped and a die run down the bolts to tidy them up
- 6x 6mm allen screws on the propshaft were very tight, i ended up buying a 1/4 drive breaker bar with 6mm allen key socket which just about clears the propshaft. I then added a short pole onto the breaker bar and it was a case of break the tool or break the bolts free, luckily the tool even thou it was bending held together and i got them undone okay. I think the main thing with undoing these is to make sure you tap the socket fully into the allen bolt, if its not in all the way then the torque of undoing it will probably chew up the bolt.
- I managed to remove the diff without removing any rear suspension components, it was abit of a tight squeeze with a pry bar trying to pop the driveshafts clear but they came out okay. Putting them back in was abit of a pain but if you leave everything nice and loose then the diff still has a fair bit of movement.
- I have a tannabe medallion touring exhaust and very handily it allows you to remove the y section that hangs below the diff completely. The only issue with this as mine is 3 years old the gaskets fell apart whilst dismantling the exhaust. I have reassembled with exhaust paste and hopefully that will be fine but i might sources some gaskets anyway just incase.
You do need decent impact tools, not so much for the propshaft and the driveshaft as access is tight but for me the 4x17mm bolts were pain and took ages to sort out. I was pretty sure they would snap when i was undoing them i guess its what happens if you put a steel bolt into an aluminium thread, overtime it will corrode.
Its all in now and hopefully when it stops raining the exhaust paste has cured i can take it out and check everything is okay
I will definitely be investing in a vertical compressor for my garage in the near future, you cant beat air tools for working on cars.
It kind of makes me laugh when i see photos of the underneath of a US car with hardly any rust on it. I ran into quite a few issues during the removal and refitting.
- 4x 17mm bolts that hold the diff to the aluminium mounting arm stripped the threads out and were so tight that my electric impact gun couldn't undo them, I had to do every turn by hand with a breaker bar. Each one had to be re tapped and a die run down the bolts to tidy them up
- 6x 6mm allen screws on the propshaft were very tight, i ended up buying a 1/4 drive breaker bar with 6mm allen key socket which just about clears the propshaft. I then added a short pole onto the breaker bar and it was a case of break the tool or break the bolts free, luckily the tool even thou it was bending held together and i got them undone okay. I think the main thing with undoing these is to make sure you tap the socket fully into the allen bolt, if its not in all the way then the torque of undoing it will probably chew up the bolt.
- I managed to remove the diff without removing any rear suspension components, it was abit of a tight squeeze with a pry bar trying to pop the driveshafts clear but they came out okay. Putting them back in was abit of a pain but if you leave everything nice and loose then the diff still has a fair bit of movement.
- I have a tannabe medallion touring exhaust and very handily it allows you to remove the y section that hangs below the diff completely. The only issue with this as mine is 3 years old the gaskets fell apart whilst dismantling the exhaust. I have reassembled with exhaust paste and hopefully that will be fine but i might sources some gaskets anyway just incase.
You do need decent impact tools, not so much for the propshaft and the driveshaft as access is tight but for me the 4x17mm bolts were pain and took ages to sort out. I was pretty sure they would snap when i was undoing them i guess its what happens if you put a steel bolt into an aluminium thread, overtime it will corrode.
Its all in now and hopefully when it stops raining the exhaust paste has cured i can take it out and check everything is okay
I will definitely be investing in a vertical compressor for my garage in the near future, you cant beat air tools for working on cars.
02-20-2016, 07:09 AM
#66
An old engineering trick for allen head bolts. If you put vice grip pliers on the head, it keeps the socket from mushrooming.
10-03-2017, 05:18 AM
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02-29-2020, 05:11 AM
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I was swapping one from a car to another... Solo... puddymod swap
I used this with a few variations, and combined a few other tips.
https://robrobinette.com/S2000Differential.htm
I left the exhaust, and zero issues getting to bolts.
My changes:
1. remove both rear upper A-arms top mounting bolts: remove the bolt opposite of the rear shock, so you can angle the a-arm for removing the other bolt around the spring. This makes removing the axle shafts a breeze.
2. Leave the mounts: I removed the 4 17mm lower bolts to the front mount, and left the forward mounts. Push them up when dropping diff. They move around and allow you to wiggle the diff out, and make alignment easy on install.
3. Remove the rear 4 17mm nuts to the rear mount and studs. Studs are 8mm, and require a heavy duty socket. Ask me how I know.
4. install was a breeze. Lifted with a jack, and moved the front mount arms into place for bolts.
5. Remember to put axle shaft in before you put A-arms back. Out of four, I forgot twice
I used this with a few variations, and combined a few other tips.
https://robrobinette.com/S2000Differential.htm
I left the exhaust, and zero issues getting to bolts.
My changes:
1. remove both rear upper A-arms top mounting bolts: remove the bolt opposite of the rear shock, so you can angle the a-arm for removing the other bolt around the spring. This makes removing the axle shafts a breeze.
2. Leave the mounts: I removed the 4 17mm lower bolts to the front mount, and left the forward mounts. Push them up when dropping diff. They move around and allow you to wiggle the diff out, and make alignment easy on install.
3. Remove the rear 4 17mm nuts to the rear mount and studs. Studs are 8mm, and require a heavy duty socket. Ask me how I know.
4. install was a breeze. Lifted with a jack, and moved the front mount arms into place for bolts.
5. Remember to put axle shaft in before you put A-arms back. Out of four, I forgot twice
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