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DIY: Spring and Shock Installation

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Old 05-03-2012, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Ayge
Is there a reason why I can't drill out the rose bushings instead of dremeling them? I measure the piston diameter @ .480", seems like it would be easier to open them up with a 1/2" drill bit. Is the .020" difference in diameter too much play?
Why not spend $10 and get a 12mil bit and get it tight?
Old 09-06-2012, 03:13 AM
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Just followed this excellent guide to put newer shocks into my 04.

One thing: For the front, before you undo the top A-arm bolts, undo the clamps for the ABS speed sensor cable to avoid stretching it when the A-arm falls forward.

Thanks for the info, so much easier than splitting ball joints as it says to do in the manual
Old 12-12-2012, 07:37 PM
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Seems like im reviving a dead topic and aside from the DYI drilling, is there a part that Koni sells to avoid the drilling? And what are you guys doing about the dust boots? Drilling them as well?
Old 05-15-2013, 12:33 PM
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In so far as the angle process with the carboard and not spinning the shock, is this necessary even when re-using the OEM shocks?
Old 05-19-2013, 03:26 AM
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I just finished changing out my OEM shocks for Koni's yesterday. An '03 with 91k miles on her. First time ever attempt at doing this DIY. Scissor jack worked great for the rears. The gas fill line swings out of way quite easily. The hardest part is drilling out all those holes and cranking down on the spring compressor. I found that a 15/32nd unibit is the perfect size hole, but make sure you have 2 or 3 cause they wear out. The info here was spot on. Thanks.
Old 05-19-2013, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by arsenal
In so far as the angle process with the carboard and not spinning the shock, is this necessary even when re-using the OEM shocks?


yes... and no: Its all about setting the top hat at the correct angle so you dont have a hard time lining up the bottom of the shock with the suspension arm. I just eyeballed it really close before tightening the nut on the top hat and because I was using a lowering spring it wasn't hard to line things up by hand when installing the assembly.

Old 05-19-2013, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by magic tofu
Seems like im reviving a dead topic and aside from the DYI drilling, is there a part that Koni sells to avoid the drilling? And what are you guys doing about the dust boots? Drilling them as well?
its okay! old topics are for reviving, keeps more info in one spot

I don't think Koni does sell a part. I remember seeing some extra aftermarket parts made by KYB on tirerack.com, but not sure if they're parts you're looking for.

I kept my dust boots and drilled them as well.
Old 05-20-2013, 05:24 AM
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I drilled out the dust covers too. The bummer for me was on the 4th shock dissassembly I discoverd I left out the dust cover plate from the shock before. Had to remove it and do all over again...ARGHH! I replaced the upper & lower spring seats as well. They ride great! After a couple "firmer" adjustments I took a very fast and hard exit turn off the interstate exit ramp and wow what a difference. Can't wait for my next track session.
Old 05-20-2013, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by F1 blue
Originally Posted by arsenal' timestamp='1368650025' post='22544871
In so far as the angle process with the carboard and not spinning the shock, is this necessary even when re-using the OEM shocks?


yes... and no: Its all about setting the top hat at the correct angle so you dont have a hard time lining up the bottom of the shock with the suspension arm. I just eyeballed it really close before tightening the nut on the top hat and because I was using a lowering spring it wasn't hard to line things up by hand when installing the assembly.
Yep, this is what I ended up doing. Placed it in the position with out the spring, slowly pulled it out, lifted up the top hat from straight above, had the gf lower the spring in, placed the top back on, she held the allen key while I tightened. Worked a charm (once we figured out a process).
Old 06-21-2014, 08:48 PM
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So... not knowing better... I took apart the stock shocks and springs and re-installed as is they were the same as original... so I moved over the perch and the collar thing that is on the stock shock over to the Koni's. Everything else as per Koni's instructions, just that I did not use the Koni supplier collar in either position, I am just using the stock parts on the new shocks. It seems fine and the car's stance seems even and ...even though I did estimate a 1/2" drop or so from doing this compared to using the Koni collars.. ... I can't really notice it and since I did not go into the project with this objective (lowering) I did not measure ride height before starting...

The setup looks like stock, so I believe it to be safe, just wondering what everyone's thoughts are and if there are any comments.

Thanks,
FC

I did not take a picture of the final setup, but I hope I have explained it a bit. Tomorrow I could take a pic installed in car, if required.

Thanks!


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