When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
what i understood from reading various posts that if you rev high a lot at some stage retainers start cracking.
experts - correct me if i got it wrong.
Quick Q - I have my car at the body shop I have been going down there and doing the retainers a few at a time, I have 4 complete, but the 5th spring I took out looking fro a keepers and it tipped over is there a right way for the spring to be set? Upside down can happen? I am thinking about just taking off the next one and looking thanks!
it's going okay, my tool I got from Autozone sort of is hard to use, i called Honda to see what they use but they never called back lol.
It is more than ok to use ap2 retainers in 9k applications
I dont use them on the exhaust side for two reasons:
-it is extremely rare for the exhaust retainers to crack.
-it will, in theory, lower the rpm it takes for the exhaust valves to float and cause piston-valve contact
You can use them on the exhaust side, but dont mis-shift. If you do, you will bend valves before splitting retainers (kinda defeats the purpose of putting them in there)
The idea of putting ap2 retainers on the intake side is to give the engine the abilty to withstand an over-rev.
IF you are 100% confident you will never mis-shift, then surely it is ok to use ap2 retainers on intake and exhaust.
I used some clear vinyl tube wedged in the cylinder (as above) to support the valves. Air hose just had wayy too many attachments to watch after, and with the tube you can hear for the cotters "releasing" better.
I used an autozone valvespring compressor with the tabs buzzed off. It's bottom finger parts were too small to reliably keep the spring compressed, so I would suggest finding a spring compressor with the biggest fingers you can to grab that spring confidently. Only use this one if you can modify parts well.
Also I used a metal tooth scraper tool a lot for delicate nudging of various parts, so have something sharp, pointy, and maybe bent at hand.
You can also do this without supporting the valves. If at TDC for that cylinder the valves won't fall away from you that easily, and def won't fall into the cylinder. The hardest part by far is managing those cotters.
Just like to add I used the same one. I buzzed the tabs off too. Sad thing was as I got to the 7th retainers the little arms gave out and were got bent from the tension. I ended up making it still work by hammering them back to where I needed them. I will use a new spring compressor if this is done again .
Also as I was putting back the cam caps, or cam rails on top, rail #4 bolt #2 on the intake side, I was tightening that and I heard a sort of " snap/pop " I was curious if this has ever happened to anyone? I thought my camshaft was aligned maybe not? I am looking to make sure it did not crack my cam rail/cap. Also did the lash adjustments. What is the usual problem with lash adjustment, they get to tight or loose?
I used the tool made by Buddy Club. I believe there is a smaller one out there but I cannot remember the name. It's a flat piece of metal that screws onto the head and a screw with a cage in the middle of it.
Originally Posted by Avionics86,Aug 22 2010, 07:28 PM
I used the tool made by Buddy Club. I believe there is a smaller one out there but I cannot remember the name. It's a flat piece of metal that screws onto the head and a screw with a cage in the middle of it.
Can you get me the site and price you paid, I want this! =]
