DIY Valve retainer replacement with head in place
Bump...was going to send this out to do at a shop but after seeing that video in the original posts link doesn't seem too hard. I know there is more to it by removing the cams etc. Tried looking for a how to but the search option seems to not be working?
Billman...why do you recommend that mix of ap1 and ap2 retainers? Just out of curiosity?
Billman...why do you recommend that mix of ap1 and ap2 retainers? Just out of curiosity?
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/569...t__p__18658304
Intake side gets AP2 retainers and keepers.
Exhaust side stays 100% stock.
NO AP2 springs on either side.
In theory, adding weight to the exhaust valves will lower the RPM needed to make piston-to-valve contact.
Over revs go like this on a stock AP1:
-Mild over rev: intake valves float, splitting the retainers (likely around 10k)
-more severe: at about 10,700 rpm, the exhaust valves contact the piston.
The purpose of the AP2 upgrade is to raise the retainer-split-rpm over the exhaust-valve-float rpm.
Bottom line, you do not want to lower that number (10,700)
So after the upgrade, your engine can withstand 10,600, instead of 10k.
Exhaust side stays 100% stock.
NO AP2 springs on either side.
In theory, adding weight to the exhaust valves will lower the RPM needed to make piston-to-valve contact.
Over revs go like this on a stock AP1:
-Mild over rev: intake valves float, splitting the retainers (likely around 10k)
-more severe: at about 10,700 rpm, the exhaust valves contact the piston.
The purpose of the AP2 upgrade is to raise the retainer-split-rpm over the exhaust-valve-float rpm.
Bottom line, you do not want to lower that number (10,700)
So after the upgrade, your engine can withstand 10,600, instead of 10k.
Hello Billman250.I am from Greece and i have a honda s2000 ap1 '00 fc20c2 stock.I will do a replacement on valve seal and i want to change and my retainers preventive beacause my car have about 100.000 km.I see that you recommend to change the intake retainers with ap2 retainers and cotter and the exhaust with ap1 retainers and cotter.I want to ask if the valve adjustment is it the same?I must do something else to put the ap2 retainers?
Hello posidoni,
You do not need to do anything else -- the valve adjustment is the same with the AP2 retainers. They fit the same, the clearances are the same, and the procedure is the same.
So you can continue to use your AP1 repair manual for valve adjustments, and for all other valvetrain work.
Cheers,
John
You do not need to do anything else -- the valve adjustment is the same with the AP2 retainers. They fit the same, the clearances are the same, and the procedure is the same.
So you can continue to use your AP1 repair manual for valve adjustments, and for all other valvetrain work.
Cheers,
John
Hello posidoni,
You do not need to do anything else -- the valve adjustment is the same with the AP2 retainers. They fit the same, the clearances are the same, and the procedure is the same.
So you can continue to use your AP1 repair manual for valve adjustments, and for all other valvetrain work.
Cheers,
John
You do not need to do anything else -- the valve adjustment is the same with the AP2 retainers. They fit the same, the clearances are the same, and the procedure is the same.
So you can continue to use your AP1 repair manual for valve adjustments, and for all other valvetrain work.
Cheers,
John
Intake side gets AP2 retainers and keepers.
Exhaust side stays 100% stock.
NO AP2 springs on either side.
In theory, adding weight to the exhaust valves will lower the RPM needed to make piston-to-valve contact.
Over revs go like this on a stock AP1:
-Mild over rev: intake valves float, splitting the retainers (likely around 10k)
-more severe: at about 10,700 rpm, the exhaust valves contact the piston.
The purpose of the AP2 upgrade is to raise the retainer-split-rpm over the exhaust-valve-float rpm.
Bottom line, you do not want to lower that number (10,700)
So after the upgrade, your engine can withstand 10,600, instead of 10k.
Exhaust side stays 100% stock.
NO AP2 springs on either side.
In theory, adding weight to the exhaust valves will lower the RPM needed to make piston-to-valve contact.
Over revs go like this on a stock AP1:
-Mild over rev: intake valves float, splitting the retainers (likely around 10k)
-more severe: at about 10,700 rpm, the exhaust valves contact the piston.
The purpose of the AP2 upgrade is to raise the retainer-split-rpm over the exhaust-valve-float rpm.
Bottom line, you do not want to lower that number (10,700)
So after the upgrade, your engine can withstand 10,600, instead of 10k.
Dealer procedure is to pull the head. That is the last thing you want...by a DEALER. trust me, your car will never be right again.
You are way off on the parts.
You will need 8 retainers and 16 cotters and thats it. Price is 40-70 bucks depending on where you shop.
You are way off on the parts.
You will need 8 retainers and 16 cotters and thats it. Price is 40-70 bucks depending on where you shop.
In all honesty, your best bet is to learn how to inspect them. And if they are good, leave them alone. Dont mechanically over-rev, and you'll be fine.
I'm at 110k on original retainers. I inspect them every 15k or so. I run my car to 9k constantly, and my car will be the prove-mule that you cant crack aa AP1 retainer without over-rev.
I have seen broken retainers in AP1s as low as 19k miles.
I'm at 110k on original retainers. I inspect them every 15k or so. I run my car to 9k constantly, and my car will be the prove-mule that you cant crack aa AP1 retainer without over-rev.
I have seen broken retainers in AP1s as low as 19k miles.
Thanks Billman, not sure what I was thinking as far as $$$ on parts, yes looks like about $35.00 for all....If I was the original owner I would not have the concern but not knowing how it was run for the last 8 years some concern developed after reading some nitemarish stories on the site. Had to drive by Dealer today so I stopped in to inquire about doing the service....not sure the service adviser knew what he was talking about as he said labor would be around $ 1000.00 and take 7 hours.....can't see the 7 hours at all or is that close?
Funny about the parts cost at Majestic Honda, they wanted more for the AP1 retainers than the AP2....not much about .60 each....
Thanks again, guess I should find someone to just inspect them and go from there....
I haven't come close to the 9000 yet....
Funny about the parts cost at Majestic Honda, they wanted more for the AP1 retainers than the AP2....not much about .60 each....
Thanks again, guess I should find someone to just inspect them and go from there....
I haven't come close to the 9000 yet....
They are quoting to pull the cylinder head to do the job. Be very clear here. Do not let them touch your car....
I'm sure if you can take some nice pics with the camera in flower mode we can check them right here










