Dry Starts?
Originally Posted by 90crvtec,Aug 13 2007, 09:54 AM
What's your reasoning on this? If an engine is started cold, idled, and shut off, fuel dilution will set in very quickly. I personally think this is a really dumb idea, especially on a sports car that already has a great lubrication design.
Not only will daily starts increase fuel and moisture in your oil, but the moisture picks up sulfur in your oil (byproducts of combustion) to produce a dilute sulfuric acid. This will result in corrosive wear, and cause your TBN to deplete (i.e. - your oil will go bad quicker).
If you're really anal about lubrication (like me), you can always install a prelube pump. I have a toggle switch below my dash that I switch on before I start the car, and have around 35 psi before I press the start button. I also use 0W-30 synthetic oil (Amsoil).
^ Its never cold down here. so running a 0 weight is useless. The oil starts out at over 90 degrees 6 moths of the year. Ad I posted in the thread you were speaking of reread it. I stated there that I would never run anything less then a 40 weight on my turbo s2k. I am not simply going to read one thread and regurgitate it as you do. I am not a scientist sitting in a lab checking out oil properties and posting articles for you to read and swear by. I drive a car check my oil and oil pressure and know what runs best for me in my climate. Someone posting in Ohio should take into consideration the Texas heat year round.
If your car is going to be sitting for extended periods of time, add a can of STP. The residual qualities of this additive should (in theory) maintain a very slick coating on bearings and journals.
You could also use one of the more modern molys like Slick-50 or Dura-lube although, I doubt weather the qualities your looking for would actually justify the price over STP.
I have none of this stuff in my car but my car is daily driven. The only reason I don't use any of these products is I'm concerned about upsetting the Ph and the additive package that comes with modern conventional and syntehic oils.
Your case is different though, an additive such as the ones described would probably be better in the long run as long as you continue with routine oil changes without regards to milage.
You could also use one of the more modern molys like Slick-50 or Dura-lube although, I doubt weather the qualities your looking for would actually justify the price over STP.
I have none of this stuff in my car but my car is daily driven. The only reason I don't use any of these products is I'm concerned about upsetting the Ph and the additive package that comes with modern conventional and syntehic oils.
Your case is different though, an additive such as the ones described would probably be better in the long run as long as you continue with routine oil changes without regards to milage.
Originally Posted by ChefJ,Aug 13 2007, 06:41 AM
Start it daily. Just because you only drive it on the weekends shouldn't exclude you from starting it once a day.
Starting the vehicle only until partial warmup with no load on the engine everyday will only lead to excessive carbon buildup and increased wear.
Originally Posted by ChefJ,Aug 13 2007, 02:29 PM
^ Its never cold down here. so running a 0 weight is useless. The oil starts out at over 90 degrees 6 moths of the year. Ad I posted in the thread you were speaking of reread it. I stated there that I would never run anything less then a 40 weight on my turbo s2k. I am not simply going to read one thread and regurgitate it as you do. I am not a scientist sitting in a lab checking out oil properties and posting articles for you to read and swear by. I drive a car check my oil and oil pressure and know what runs best for me in my climate. Someone posting in Ohio should take into consideration the Texas heat year round.
I don't know how else to say this, if you don't get it now you never will. 90F is still cold as far as motor oil is concerned. So even if you live in an extremely warm climate using a 0w or a 5w oil is very beneficial. Unless you can start your car with the oil temperature at 210F then using a 0w/5w oil will always have benefits. Once the oil is warm (210+F) then it will all perform the same, 10w30 and 0w30 will be equal. Keep in mind that what you consider "hot" and what is considered hot in an engine are two completely different extremes. You or I will think that 90F is pretty darn warm, but that's nothing for motor oil. So even if you think 90F is Georgia is warm, you'll still get better cold flow performance from a 0w oil when starting your car in 90F temperatures.
The OP is worried about "dry starts" and myself and several other people have suggested using 0w oils to help minimize wear during cold starts. Cold = any temperature less than 210F. If you don't understand this, or if you can't wrap your mind around it then that's OK, but don't spread misinformation and/or rebuke members like myself or slalom44, we're the people that do the research and get our facts straight so that people like the OP can benefit.
Really, dry starts are my only concern. I will follow Honda's recommended weights/viscosities and no additives. However, since I have used Lucas Oil products in my Lightning and other vehicles, I just emailed them the same question. I'll post their response.




