Just start it up and drive it as you usually do. A one-week span is nothing to worry about at all.

 

 

No, not at all. Starting the car is part of normal service, although roughly 80% of all engine wear takes place at start up.




[QUOTE=DeeDubya,Aug 13 2007, 07:37 AM]I still have the break-in oil now but at the first oil change I would like to make the right choice. Any suggestions?

 

If your worried about dry startups, run 5w-30 motor oil. When you reach 8-10k miles on the ticker, switch to a good synthetic 5w-30 motor oil and you'll be good to go for years

 

Like i was trying to get at this entire thread...Dont start the engine daily unless you're doing some considerable driving (and not just around the block).

And Honda engines last forever

[/thread]

 

A 0w30 and 10w30 only share the same viscosity through a tube at 100C. The base oil viscosity and hence other properties of the oil will be very different.

Basically the 10w will be a thicker base oil with less VM, offering more protection under load as they typically have higher HTHS values.

I would be happy running a 10w in any conditions above zero degrees, it would also offer more protection when driven hard and less suseptible for the VM to shear meaning you lose the thickening effect as the oil gets older.

As for the OP, just start the car when you need to drive it

 

I spin my engine close to, or at 9k all the time using Mobil 1 5w-30 motor oil. The car is meticulously cared for and still runs like new




[QUOTE=Si2k,Aug 15 2007, 02:08 AM]As for the OP, just start the car when you need to drive it

 

A lot of good advice.

Thanks to everyone for your input. I've owned a number of vehicles over the years but there's something special about this little s2000 that makes me think I'll be keeping it for a while.

 

Okay.....

Si2k Posted on Aug 15 2007, 11:08 AM
True, in general.
The SAE 30 range is wide though, anything between 9.3 cSt and 12.5 cSt is called a 30 weight.
Take the "German" Castrol 0W-30 at 12.2 cSt @100C.
My Shell 0W-30 is 9.6 cSt @100C.
Most 10W-30's oil specs I have seen are between 10.4 and 11.2 cSt @ 100C.
Not the same.
Also true.
Some Group IV/V 0W-30 oils will have better properties then most dino 10W-30's.
Note: in favour of the "thinner" oil.
Check your facts.
I did some quick "research" on HTHS numbers:
Mobil1-EP 10W-30: 3.1
Mobil1 10W-30: 3.14
Mobil1-EP 5W-30: 3.1
Mobil1 0W-30: 2.99
Amsoil 10W-30: 3.2
Amsoil 0W-30: 3.2
Not a lot of difference.
Besides, higher HTHS numbers usually means thicker oils, usually xxW-40 oils.
I've seen a study done, posted on BITOG, that the thinner the oil the more (yes, MORE) oil is left at the top of the cylinder wall, helping the rings seal better, less wear, less friction due to "thick" oil = less power loss at higher revs.
The F20C2 (and the F22) make some revs too
How much HTHS do you really need?
ACEA (European ILSAC) states that long drain interval oils in the highest catagory still should have a HTHS of 2.9, max HTHS value is 3.5.
So you're driving your Volkswagen diesel around for 30.000 km on one sump of oil and a HTHS of 3 is bad....?
I don't think so
Why did I pick a diesel?
Known for high torque at low revs, that is IMO the times when one needs the HTHS most.
Our F20C2's spinin' at 8700 rpm generate so much hydrodynamic oil pressure in the cranck journals, who needs HTHS
Again: a true syn 0W-30 made of synthetic base stocks will perform better at higher temps for a longer time.
A true 10W-30 will also do that, but you loose the flow needed at lower engine temps.
So a true syn 10W-30 has no real benefits IMO.

Agreed, let the high idle settle for +/- 10 seconds and drive.

 

[QUOTE=SpitfireS,Aug 15 2007, 06:57 PM] Okay.....