OMG - after having dumped in all the money for the performance parts , my best numbers on the Dynojet was 193.2 rwhp at 8300 rpm and torgue of 125.2 at 7400. Air/fuel mix terrible in mid to high 11s. I'm sure that if I could get that up to maybe 12.5 to 12.9 I'd add maybe another ten HP, but that still sucks. I've got a V-AFC on order and I'll take the car back and tune it when it comes in.

I'd feel ok if the car was stock, but that it is not!!! Worse, I never did a baseline before I added the Mingster cold air duct, the Spoon header, the JR's filter, and the Proflow TB. So, I don't know if one or more of them has lowered instead of raised the numbers.

I need to get drunk or find a nice smooth shoulder to cry on - or both.

 

No wonder my "torgue" is bad. Damned torque is not good either.

 

There have been several posts on the possible negative effects of various "performance" mods.

Here's Kwando's fight for hp...

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...?threadid=47398

We then dyno'd on the same day within 30 minutes of each other at the same place. At the time he had only the Injen CAI... 197 rwhp corrected. I was stock 206.5 rwhp.

Would it be possible to take some of the mods off and start over? would cost a bit to get the dyno...and quite a bit of work in Remove and Replace...

 

Sounds like Honda has spoiled the aftermarket for this car and wrung almost every ounce of performance it could out of a normally aspirated engine. Doesn't sound like anyone is getting more than maybe 10% increase in either HP or TQ with their Non-FI mods. I know that's no consolation after spending 100's/1000's extra.
Vortech, Vortech, Vortech (with the Jeopardy themesong playing in the background)

 

1) Your mods are relatively minor.

JR filter = 0.5hp gain max
Big TBody = potentially 0 hp on otherwise stock motor
Spoon headers = 0 and up hp, depending on other engine mods
Mingster cold air duct at rest = 0hp gain

That's the problem. Only useful mod for the dyno you have done is the header.

Get some cams, and engine management, and you will make bigger numbers. Be patient.

 

man
you guys are scaring me not to mod my car ...
oh well, maybe a aftermarket drop in filter ...

 

Damn Pix, sorry to hear that.


When I dynoed the car, I had a Spoon Exhaust, header, and a Mugen intake, and untuned got 206@wheels. Since the engine was running really rich due to the exhaust and header mainly, the AFC was a great helper, and after tuning, peak power was raised to 218@rear wheels. I am not mainly concerned with the peak power, but with the powerband instead. My midrange and low end power really increased with the mods. I hope you find a solution to the problem....

Nick

 

Thanks Nick - appreciate the sympathy, but didja have to rub it in with YOUR dyno figures? BTW - got the heat shield today. Many thanks.

Seriously, I'm wondering if the install guys screwed up when they did the TB. They did not have the computer program they needed for the S2k and the check engine light has been on ever since. Of course, they did reboot a couple of times trying to get it to go off. It did not feel like there was a problem and I at least THOUGHT it ran better after the TB install.

I do realize that even the best of the bolt-on parts (I-H-E-TB-K&N, etc) will not net more than 20rwhp or so in the best case scenario. I also understand that diff. cars react differently to diff. add-ons. Stil - only 193 PEAK RWHP????

Only hope is for the V-AFC I suppose.

Failing that, I'll start removing stuff and replacing with stock w/ dyno after each. Expensive and pain in the butt, but don't know anything else to do. Of course, I'm aware of the significant value of those after-market parts if you go FI. Not ready to do that though until I can figure out how to hide that big a chunk in the checkbook from Big Momma.

John

 

Pix,

If your CEL is on, your car is running in a "safe mode" which retards timing and runs much more richer. That is probably your problem right there. Try to fix the Check engine light before doing anything else, and dyno it again. It should be much more....

Nick

 

I wouldn't stress about it too much. The problem I see is that your car is running quite a but rich. The VAFC will correct this and you should easily be above 200hp.

With a FPR my car is set to 13:1 (as best as possible) and putting down 208hp and 144tq. The car still dumps a lot of fuel up top to 12:1. So there is still power to be had. This is with Mugen header (worth every penny), Injen CAI (worth every penny), ProFlow (waste of money...no dyno gain, and some other minor stuff.

Next couple of items on the way Hondata gasket (to retain as much power as I can), VAFC, cams.