S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Which is easier engine or tranny out for clutch re

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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 08:01 AM
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Default Which is easier engine or tranny out for clutch re

I have read the DIY on Engine removal and Tranny removal but which is the easiest, less time consuming. I have jacks and hoist. I want to replace my clutch and would like to hear opinions from owners that have done it bothways.

Thanks Guys (and Gals)
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 08:18 AM
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most likely the tranny. why would you pull out a motor to replace the clutch? seems like a ton more work(vacuum lines, coolant hoses, sensor, etc.).
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 08:25 AM
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Um yeah... trans pull is required for to pull the engine anyways soooo may as well just do the trans. You do need to drop the subframe about 3-4" to get to the top few trans bolts but other than that don't waste your time unbuttoning anything engine related.
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 08:39 AM
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I LOL'd at this question.
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 2poor2mod,Apr 1 2010, 04:39 PM
I LOL'd at this question.
So you have done both ways then, How many hours for the engine and how many for just the tranny? Any constructive help greatly appreciated
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by JPWEraser,Apr 1 2010, 04:25 PM
Um yeah... trans pull is required for to pull the engine anyways soooo may as well just do the trans. You do need to drop the subframe about 3-4" to get to the top few trans bolts but other than that don't waste your time unbuttoning anything engine related.
Thanks for the input, I didnt think the box had to come out to remove the engine, just the bolts, I thought the box, lever prop shaft all stayed in place, or is it the top three bolts that are the problem?
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by nigels,Apr 1 2010, 02:42 PM
Thanks for the input, I didnt think the box had to come out to remove the engine, just the bolts, I thought the box, lever prop shaft all stayed in place, or is it the top three bolts that are the problem?
To remove the engine, the shifter lever comes out and the prop shaft has to be taken loose from either the trans or the rear end because the trans has to be removed. The only way it wouldn't is if you remove the whole subframe and drop the engine out of the bottom of the car instead of pulling it out with a hoist.

To get to the top 3 trans bolts, you need to loosen up the motor mount top nuts and drop the subframe about 3-4 inches. That gives enough clearance to get to the top 3 bolts. Last time I did it, I just jacked up the front of the engine to see if I could get enough clearance without dropping the subframe and I could barely get to 1 of them and not the other 2 at all. Also, you need to loosen the steering mechanism where it joins the rack when you drop the subframe so it doesn't bend. Make sure to mark where it was so you can line it back up when you are putting everything back together.

I have installed enough clutches/flywheels in S2000s to where I can get it done from start to finish in about 4 hours or so without a lift.
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 12:10 PM
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Thanks JPWeraser, that's the kind of honest and informed input I am looking for I have done clutches on all sorts of older cars, Lotus Elan, Austin Healy S, Mazda's, Daihatsu and pulling the engine can sometimes be the easier option.

At my age and physical condition on my back with poor light and in 18" of space wearing varifocals, is not so much fun as weilding a spanner in one hand and a beer in the other, from above....... I think I knew the answer........well here goes

Not sure which clutch though. Fiesty day driving, the odd track day, and very little town driving any suggestions out there. NA by the way.
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by nigels,Apr 1 2010, 04:10 PM
Thanks JPWeraser, that's the kind of honest and informed input I am looking for I have done clutches on all sorts of older cars, Lotus Elan, Austin Healy S, Mazda's, Daihatsu and pulling the engine can sometimes be the easier option.

At my age and physical condition on my back with poor light and in 18" of space wearing varifocals, is not so much fun as weilding a spanner in one hand and a beer in the other, from above....... I think I knew the answer........well here goes

Not sure which clutch though. Fiesty day driving, the odd track day, and very little town driving any suggestions out there. NA by the way.
No problem. There are lots of good low cost options for NA applications. I would look into an OEM disc with ACT PP combo. You get more clamping force and better overall longevity without sacrificing daily driver comforts. I had that setup on my car for good while with a CTSC setup that put down 325whp so it can handle more than stock power as well. I only replaced it because I upped the power to 425whp and it started slipping.
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by JPWEraser,Apr 1 2010, 08:22 PM
No problem. There are lots of good low cost options for NA applications. I would look into an OEM disc with ACT PP combo. You get more clamping force and better overall longevity without sacrificing daily driver comforts. I had that setup on my car for good while with a CTSC setup that put down 325whp so it can handle more than stock power as well. I only replaced it because I upped the power to 425whp and it started slipping.
I have seen some posts on the ACT PP, I will check out prices here and in UK, pity my clutch goes now I was over in the states over Christmas new year, could have brought one back! again thanks for the info
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