Engine cut out randomly when approaching a stop
Hi. It's one of those stall threads again but with a difference. My stock ECU modded NA '00 AP1 has been idling smoothly, no bogging down or stalling when depressing the clutch to come to a stop, etc especially after I pulled the fuel rail and cleaned the injectors myself. At the weekend however she cut out twice or thrice when I approached traffic and then after that she never did so again. I drove to an area far from home where I hadn't been in my S2000 before so that got me wondering whether the ECU picked up a change in air quality, pressure, humidity, etc that made it want to adjust as if it had been reset hence the cut outs when returning to idle...
What do you guys think? Any other similar experiences?
What do you guys think? Any other similar experiences?
A warning bell went off in my head reading your title. But it was allayed when I read that car started back up with no issues.
The concern I was thinking of was the thrust washer bearing. When it first starts to go bad car will randomly stall. But it typically stays locked up, and car won't restart. Can't even rotate crank with a wrench and socket. Then it cools down and all is fine (so shop or dealer finds nothing wrong). But its a dangerous warning that if ignored will very soon destroy your motor.
It doesn't sound like you have this issue at all, I only mention it in case you do see any such symptoms, immediately stop driving it until you can have this bearing replaced.
The concern I was thinking of was the thrust washer bearing. When it first starts to go bad car will randomly stall. But it typically stays locked up, and car won't restart. Can't even rotate crank with a wrench and socket. Then it cools down and all is fine (so shop or dealer finds nothing wrong). But its a dangerous warning that if ignored will very soon destroy your motor.
It doesn't sound like you have this issue at all, I only mention it in case you do see any such symptoms, immediately stop driving it until you can have this bearing replaced.
A warning bell went off in my head reading your title. But it was allayed when I read that car started back up with no issues.
The concern I was thinking of was the thrust washer bearing. When it first starts to go bad car will randomly stall. But it typically stays locked up, and car won't restart. Can't even rotate crank with a wrench and socket. Then it cools down and all is fine (so shop or dealer finds nothing wrong). But its a dangerous warning that if ignored will very soon destroy your motor.
It doesn't sound like you have this issue at all, I only mention it in case you do see any such symptoms, immediately stop driving it until you can have this bearing replaced.
The concern I was thinking of was the thrust washer bearing. When it first starts to go bad car will randomly stall. But it typically stays locked up, and car won't restart. Can't even rotate crank with a wrench and socket. Then it cools down and all is fine (so shop or dealer finds nothing wrong). But its a dangerous warning that if ignored will very soon destroy your motor.
It doesn't sound like you have this issue at all, I only mention it in case you do see any such symptoms, immediately stop driving it until you can have this bearing replaced.
Hi. It's one of those stall threads again but with a difference. My stock ECU modded NA '00 AP1 has been idling smoothly, no bogging down or stalling when depressing the clutch to come to a stop, etc especially after I pulled the fuel rail and cleaned the injectors myself. At the weekend however she cut out twice or thrice when I approached traffic and then after that she never did so again. I drove to an area far from home where I hadn't been in my S2000 before so that got me wondering whether the ECU picked up a change in air quality, pressure, humidity, etc that made it want to adjust as if it had been reset hence the cut outs when returning to idle...
What do you guys think? Any other similar experiences?
What do you guys think? Any other similar experiences?
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A warning bell went off in my head reading your title. But it was allayed when I read that car started back up with no issues.
The concern I was thinking of was the thrust washer bearing. When it first starts to go bad car will randomly stall. But it typically stays locked up, and car won't restart. Can't even rotate crank with a wrench and socket. Then it cools down and all is fine (so shop or dealer finds nothing wrong). But its a dangerous warning that if ignored will very soon destroy your motor.
It doesn't sound like you have this issue at all, I only mention it in case you do see any such symptoms, immediately stop driving it until you can have this bearing replaced.
The concern I was thinking of was the thrust washer bearing. When it first starts to go bad car will randomly stall. But it typically stays locked up, and car won't restart. Can't even rotate crank with a wrench and socket. Then it cools down and all is fine (so shop or dealer finds nothing wrong). But its a dangerous warning that if ignored will very soon destroy your motor.
It doesn't sound like you have this issue at all, I only mention it in case you do see any such symptoms, immediately stop driving it until you can have this bearing replaced.
Did this happen right after you worked on the car? Just checking the simple things. If you had the battery disconnected for very long it can lose its idle and take some time to relearn. During that time stumbling/stalling when going from partial throttle to off throttle can occur. There is a relearn process, but many times will relearn just fine by driving it.
I'm just wondering if the ECU picked up a sudden change in climate to warrant a cut out or if the fuel quality from BP surprised it compared to the Shell V power it's used to...?










