S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Engine cut out randomly when approaching a stop

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Old Sep 9, 2019 | 11:38 PM
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Default Engine cut out randomly when approaching a stop

Hi. It's one of those stall threads again but with a difference. My stock ECU modded NA '00 AP1 has been idling smoothly, no bogging down or stalling when depressing the clutch to come to a stop, etc especially after I pulled the fuel rail and cleaned the injectors myself. At the weekend however she cut out twice or thrice when I approached traffic and then after that she never did so again. I drove to an area far from home where I hadn't been in my S2000 before so that got me wondering whether the ECU picked up a change in air quality, pressure, humidity, etc that made it want to adjust as if it had been reset hence the cut outs when returning to idle...

What do you guys think? Any other similar experiences?
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Old Sep 10, 2019 | 12:41 AM
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Any chance of bad gas? In the car, of course.
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Old Sep 10, 2019 | 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by windhund116
Any chance of bad gas? In the car, of course.
Haha no and bad fuel could have been a possibility since I had just filled up several km's before the stall took place. Hmm... she runs as strong and fierce as usual though.
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Old Sep 10, 2019 | 06:28 AM
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Plug in one of those OBD readers and get some fuel trims numbers.
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Old Sep 10, 2019 | 07:27 AM
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A warning bell went off in my head reading your title. But it was allayed when I read that car started back up with no issues.

The concern I was thinking of was the thrust washer bearing. When it first starts to go bad car will randomly stall. But it typically stays locked up, and car won't restart. Can't even rotate crank with a wrench and socket. Then it cools down and all is fine (so shop or dealer finds nothing wrong). But its a dangerous warning that if ignored will very soon destroy your motor.

It doesn't sound like you have this issue at all, I only mention it in case you do see any such symptoms, immediately stop driving it until you can have this bearing replaced.
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Old Sep 10, 2019 | 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Car Analogy
A warning bell went off in my head reading your title. But it was allayed when I read that car started back up with no issues.

The concern I was thinking of was the thrust washer bearing. When it first starts to go bad car will randomly stall. But it typically stays locked up, and car won't restart. Can't even rotate crank with a wrench and socket. Then it cools down and all is fine (so shop or dealer finds nothing wrong). But its a dangerous warning that if ignored will very soon destroy your motor.

It doesn't sound like you have this issue at all, I only mention it in case you do see any such symptoms, immediately stop driving it until you can have this bearing replaced.
Yeh 99% not this. But it wouldn't hurt to check the endplay.
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Old Sep 10, 2019 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by RolanTHUNDER
Hi. It's one of those stall threads again but with a difference. My stock ECU modded NA '00 AP1 has been idling smoothly, no bogging down or stalling when depressing the clutch to come to a stop, etc especially after I pulled the fuel rail and cleaned the injectors myself. At the weekend however she cut out twice or thrice when I approached traffic and then after that she never did so again. I drove to an area far from home where I hadn't been in my S2000 before so that got me wondering whether the ECU picked up a change in air quality, pressure, humidity, etc that made it want to adjust as if it had been reset hence the cut outs when returning to idle...

What do you guys think? Any other similar experiences?
Did this happen right after you worked on the car? Just checking the simple things. If you had the battery disconnected for very long it can lose its idle and take some time to relearn. During that time stumbling/stalling when going from partial throttle to off throttle can occur. There is a relearn process, but many times will relearn just fine by driving it.
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Old Sep 10, 2019 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by HawkeyeGeoff
Plug in one of those OBD readers and get some fuel trims numbers.
Yeah I've got a Euro/JDM spec which doesn't come with the OBD port unfortunately. I know the USDM spec has that port from the AP1 generation up. Here only the DBW '06+ models have the OBD port
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Old Sep 10, 2019 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Car Analogy
A warning bell went off in my head reading your title. But it was allayed when I read that car started back up with no issues.

The concern I was thinking of was the thrust washer bearing. When it first starts to go bad car will randomly stall. But it typically stays locked up, and car won't restart. Can't even rotate crank with a wrench and socket. Then it cools down and all is fine (so shop or dealer finds nothing wrong). But its a dangerous warning that if ignored will very soon destroy your motor.

It doesn't sound like you have this issue at all, I only mention it in case you do see any such symptoms, immediately stop driving it until you can have this bearing replaced.
Thanks for the input but yeah it's definitely not that thankfully. I don't have a clutch interlock switch like you guys do requiring you to depress the clutch every time you start the car. In other words my car's thrust bearing wouldn't have been exposed to oil-less thrusts. I can't even recall a time when I pushed the clutch in to start the car. Always starting in neutral.
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Old Sep 10, 2019 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by engifineer
Did this happen right after you worked on the car? Just checking the simple things. If you had the battery disconnected for very long it can lose its idle and take some time to relearn. During that time stumbling/stalling when going from partial throttle to off throttle can occur. There is a relearn process, but many times will relearn just fine by driving it.
No I hadn't done anything requiring me to disconnect the battery so the ECU has been in its "learned" state for a long time now. The only thing I did fairly recently was pull the fuel rail to clean the injectors and ports. I pulled the 15a fuel pump fuse for that as required then put it back in after the job was done. I've been through the idle relearn process many a time before when cleaning IACV, replacing the ground cable, replacing the battery itself, removing my starter to service it etc.

I'm just wondering if the ECU picked up a sudden change in climate to warrant a cut out or if the fuel quality from BP surprised it compared to the Shell V power it's used to...?
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