Also in response to pulling the key out while driving. I have unplugged the immobilizer receiver while driving it made no difference. The car didn't do anything different. And as previously state based on this information and wiring diagrams I believe the receiver is only used during the start up. Once the car is running the coil is latched on by another source.

However I just now thought about what if said source drops out, what would happen? However it also leads me to ask why would then immobilizer go through it's initializing process, light blinks several times and then goes out (meaning I has received a proper signal), and the car not restart afterwards until I cycle the keys from on to acc and back. Also before cycling the keys after the immobilizer initialization, why does the CEL not come back on as it should?

I blew a fuse a while ago trying to pull diagnostic codes because I got the pins wrong and when i turned the key to on the cel nor immobilizer light came on. So this makes me think it has something to do with that circuit. I wish I has the money for a helms however, I do not. Definitely not at this point in time.

 

The immobilizer is not your problem. Once the key is accepted, you could cut the chip out of the key and toss it out the window. The ECU does not ask for the code again until IGNITION/run power is lost, via 12v power or ground.

You have a bad connection somewhere, plain and simple. You are loosing ignition/run power, or ground to ignition/run power.

There is a small change that the ECU is faulty but I don't think so.

any major repair history on the car? Engine trans, accident, etc?

Do this as homework:

Plug something into the power outlet. Something that will alert you instantly if power is cut to the device. A cell phone charger, a light, something you can monitor for power interruption.

Drive car, when you lose power, see if power is lost to the device at the same time.

Report back.

 

There is a service bulletin for honda ignition switches. It entails wiggling the ignition switch key while the car is running or driving at any speed. If the car stalls, the fix is to replace the electrical part of the ignition switch and possibly the tumbler too. I've had this problem with multiple Hondas at my shop and it's a matter of deliberately wiggling and lightly twisting the ignition key while the car is running. I know this might not work for you but I thought I'd throw something out there. Also, if you have a bad crank sensor, it's very possible to have the same issues you're having. I replace a honda ignition switch harness and or tumbler once or twice a year. Mainly accords and civics.

 

yeah, there you go. they make drop lights that work off of the cig lighter 12v, just hang that from your mirror and watch for it to go out. also, if you're truly loosing power from the battery due to a bad connection, that might explain your cel not coming back on....you're essentially doing an ecu reset.


the key wiggling idea is a good one too. that's kinda why i said to try and yank out the key to see if it acts the same as your intermittent problem. but with the cel resetting and the dash going out, i'd say billman's probably hit the nail on the head. big surprise.

 

Thanks for the info Billman. I figured you would chime in eventually haha. I have a radar detector that I could use for that purpose but I can already tell you tht when it does the stutter and not the full stall the radar detector doesn't flicker at all. It's plugged into the 12v acc outlet. As I said previously, the ignition wiring has already been looked into. Even down to taking the switch itself apart. Everything looked good visually and I did all the wire wiggling thing as well.

 

As far as major repair. The clutch was replaced, that's about the biggest wok done to it. It has been in a few small accidents. Drivers side fender and door aren't original.

 

As I was reading through this thread for the first time, from the beginning, I was thinking 'ignition switch'. Then I got to what 1st s2k wrote about a Honda bulletin on this, and thought Bingo.

You said you checked the switch, but only for dirty contacts. What if its a bad or worn switch where the connections don't stay connected? The contacts could look perfect, yet the switch could be bad.

I would change the electrical part of the switch (cheap and easy, rule that out).

This would also be in line with Billmans diagnosis. Do it. Let us know.

 

FWIW, when my ignition switch went bad on my NSX, I had taken it apart and cleaned all the contacts. It looked great, but the problem didn't go away. Only when I purchased a new ignition switch (pretty cheap from rockauto.com), did the problem get fixed. So you can't always tell by looking at it.

 

Well I hate to throw money at problems especially considering my financial state right now but I ordered the switch so we will be able to put that to rest soon.

 

As suspected the ignition switch didn't solve a thing. I replaced it early this afternoon and within 10 minutes leaving my house both the momentary cut out and the complete stall (where I have to cycle the keys) happened.

Any other ideas? I have an appointment on Tuesday for a tech to look at it, not the dealership.