Engine Swapped now theres ticking Please Help
#1
Engine Swapped now theres ticking Please Help
Few weeks back I had spun a rod bearing in my factory engine. I had purchased a spare a while ago to have as added insurance. Before performing engine swap I checked the Rod Bearing clearances and valve clearance. I found no play in crank and saw none of the usual thrust bearing failure signs so I did not pull the cradle to check the Main Bearings. All the rod bearings had been replaced by person I purchased engine from and when I pulled the caps there was no damage to the crank from what I could see and used plastigauage to verify clearances. All bearings were in spec. Pulled the valve cover off and checked all the valves. No cracked retainers and only the exhaust valve clearance had to be adjusted as they were way too tight. everything was torqued to spec and engine was installed.
Primed the engine prior to starting to ensure oil pressure had built up and then started. No issues starting up and car sounded much smoother than the original engine. Cooling system was burped and car was good to go. This morning I woke up and started my car and let it warm up and notice there was a lot of ticking. So I let it warm up too operating temp and drove it around the block. When I came back the ticking was still there and noticeably louder. So I shut it off and let it sit while I went out to take care of somethings.
Came back 3 hours later and started it up to hear this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSCOeDJJczw
Now I am at a lost. I really dont know what to do now and I really dont have the money to rebuild at the moment nor do I have the time. Hoping one of you gurus can help me out as best as possible thanks.
Primed the engine prior to starting to ensure oil pressure had built up and then started. No issues starting up and car sounded much smoother than the original engine. Cooling system was burped and car was good to go. This morning I woke up and started my car and let it warm up and notice there was a lot of ticking. So I let it warm up too operating temp and drove it around the block. When I came back the ticking was still there and noticeably louder. So I shut it off and let it sit while I went out to take care of somethings.
Came back 3 hours later and started it up to hear this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSCOeDJJczw
Now I am at a lost. I really dont know what to do now and I really dont have the money to rebuild at the moment nor do I have the time. Hoping one of you gurus can help me out as best as possible thanks.
#3
It doesn't sound like bottom end to me. I am leaning to the TCT you replaced. Try swapping back in the stock one for shits and giggles maybe and see if there is any difference. I may be wrong, but the gen x tct from billman is specific for boosted set ups isn't it?
#4
Sounds fine to me, although with the video it's hard to tell.
#5
Does sound like tensioner. Was the head surface milled?
#6
Completely OEM head has not been removed. A buddy of mine thinks It's the valves so I'm gonna be checking valve clearance again to see if there are any changes. He says I may have moved the adjustment when torquing the lock nuts. I will try the oem TCT but Billman was informed when ordering that the motor was completely stock. I will take a video tomorrow morning to do a start up video when the engine has cooled over night.
#7
Moderator
Putting the OEM tct back in would only decrease the chain tension. There is no TCT noise in your video.
GenX is for stock and FI engines. Boost has no affect on application, only install configuration for blocked maintenance pin holes by SC or turbo.
The car actually sounds normal, not really hearing what you are.
Have someone else start the car while cold, and take the vid 5 feet away from front of car, hood closed. Make sure you are in position before starting.
GenX is for stock and FI engines. Boost has no affect on application, only install configuration for blocked maintenance pin holes by SC or turbo.
The car actually sounds normal, not really hearing what you are.
Have someone else start the car while cold, and take the vid 5 feet away from front of car, hood closed. Make sure you are in position before starting.
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#8
IMO I would trust OEM bearing color codes and match them before trusting Plasti. As long as crank looked good with no damage.
Maybe ur just being a lil paranoid tho. My head was so quiet until I checked valve lash, but they were all TIGHT as shit, so I live with it knowing there in spec and not gonna drop. Moe Betta! Lol.
Maybe ur just being a lil paranoid tho. My head was so quiet until I checked valve lash, but they were all TIGHT as shit, so I live with it knowing there in spec and not gonna drop. Moe Betta! Lol.
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