Scigheras

It is a lot faster and easier to replace the retainers and seals without removing the head. Just need a method of keeping the valves from falling in, using compressed air or rope.

Deckoz

as the previous poster said.

keep the head on the block. you do not need to remove the head unless you are doing valve seats and valve guides.

I like the Rope method, described in this video

flanders

Filigranas
Before you go for the big spending things, have you done a compression check yet?

Filigranas

I an waiting for the date with the mechanic, He will do the compression and leak test, but all seems the problem are the valve retainer etc. thing from what I am reading here.
He told me

nubbel

Hmm there might be a misunderstanding.
Cracked valve retainers do not impact your cylinders' compression or attribute to your oil consumption in any way.

The only reason why I brought them up in one of my posts was, since you are taking the valve cover off already to replace the gaskets (spark plug tube seals, valve cover gasket, valve cover bolt grommets), you might as well want to take a look at your retainers as on model years before 2004 these retainers can crack and result in catastrophic engine failure

Leak down testing and compression can be done without removing the valve cover. The only thing that needs to come off/out is the coil pack cover, the coil packs itself and the spark plugs... and fuel pump fuse

Car Analogy

I believe the phrase you are talking about is 'break in procedure'. When an engine is brand new, or when its been rebuilt, you need to use the engine in a prescribed sequence to allow all the new parts to wear to compatibility with each other.

Typically its thongs like don't exceed a certain rpm for a certain number of hours or miles. And vary rpm a lot. Progressively drive it harder and harder. Then change oil at the end of break in.

There are many different break in techniques, depending on what engine is used for, etc.

But if you are just changing retainers you don't need to redo the break in process.

Filigranas

Good news today from my mechanic.

Compression gives 9 in two cilinders and 10 in the others. ( I wonder which are the 100% as new compression numbers)

No air leaks he said.

So,

What pieces should I buy?

The pcb is this one, or a black one a member posted?

https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/hond...lve-2004-2009/

All this?

Thanks for your message. See quotation below for parts:



TDC Sensors O-Ring – On quotation below
Oil Filler Gasket – Can you clarify what you mean by this? The oil filter washer?
Oil Dip Stick(cant order orings separate) – On quotation below
TCT Gasket & Peep Hole Washer – Can you see the part you require on the screenshot below?
Cam Idler Pulley O-Ring – I cannot see any o-rings for the idler pulleys?
Valve Cover Gasket – Comes as a set, see here: https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/hond...er-gasket-set/
Spark Tube Seals – On our website, see here: https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/hond...ark-plug-seal/
Valve Cover Bolt Grommets - Comes as a set, see here: https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/hond...er-gasket-set/
PCV Grommet and PCV - https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/hond...lve-2004-2009/


thanks

flanders

New engine should read 16kg (228psi), minimum values 9.5kg (135psi).
Max deviation which is usually most important should be no more than 2kg (28psi).
So if your numbers really are correct your engine is not healthy at all which your oil consumption also tells.
Next step would be to do a leak down test or was this also done? Not sure what "no air leaks" means?

Filigranas

I have also read on an Spaniard forum another guy engine gave +- 13 of compression, so I am scared with the result of mine but I am not sure
if this low compression is due to all the leaks, oil cap etc, and when all will be replaced, the engine will give better compresion results, do you?

The mechanich said he did the air leak and said everything was good, but he also said good for my allegued low compression results of 9-10.

He is one of the country most reputaple Ferrari, Maserati and Porsche mechanic, so I guess he knows what he is doing. ( Or I hope)

Is any chance he gave me wrong numbers or anything went bad?

I have never thrashed my engine, raced or done crazy things, so do not know why this is happening to me, appart of the faulty pieces I need to replace.

I am scared!

flanders

You have a leak in the combustion chamber, nothing from the gaskets and o-rings you want to change will affect this.
There is not that much you can do wrong when doing a compression test, the gauge can read low though but I would like to think a experienced mechanic has quality equipment.
Did he get you a number regarding the "air leak" or just that it was good?
F20C engine should read a lot higher than most standard engines so this mechanic might have thought your numbers were normal based on inexperience.
Normally when you get low readings you squirt a small amount of oil through the spark plug hole, then do the test again.
If numbers goes higher with oil then you know the piston rings are worn out, if results are the same then it's the valves that are at fault.