I managed to fix my gearing issue today. The problem was the clutch didn't disengage properly when the clutch pedal was pressed all the way down. So it was very hard to get it into first or reverse both when cold and warm. I had to remove the transmission again (sadly), but I managed to do it in five hours. The axle that goes from the transmission into the clutch disc and flywheel had started to rust and there was no form of lubrication. So all I had to do was remove the rust with a brush and add copper paste to the axle. I also added copper paste to where the throwout bearing slides. It's a of a lot of work to only add some copper paste, but WOW did it work. It fixed the proplem I had completely and the gearing is butter smooth now!

Some pictures:

Transmission on the way down:


2000km old cluch:



And the axle that needed some minor maintenance.


Hopefully this can help a few others as there are quite a few topics describing the same problems/symptoms, but no answer.

 

Rusted input spline, very common:

 

Isn't this part of the clutch job to begin with?

Is the copper paste recommended over the Honda urea?

 

It was my first clutch change and I didn't know that I should've removed rust and lubricate. I also got told by shops around here that they use copper paste, and so far it has done wonders to the clutching/gearing

 

My trans is out right now for a clutch job, I would like to know this as well.

 

I have found out (the hard way) to only use the Super High Temperature Urea grease from Honda. My first clutch job I had to redo in only 10000 due to the lubrication failing on the release bearing, causing the need to replace the release bearing and release bearing guide. HTH

That being said, I have not had any experience with the copper paste spoken of, the grease I tried to use that failed was a off the shelf synthetic high temp grease from Valvoline I think.

 

The problem with solid compound grease - like copper paste - is that the solid compound will seperate from the grease over time.
This even happens in the can/tube.
Heat accelerates it, as exposure to air does.
What you're left with is a dried out solid paste that acts like glue.

I would not use it on the input shaft splines.