Flickering Dash Lights
I thought I would share my experience with an issue I resolved, just in case some of the other members come across the same problem.
I noticed one evening driving that my dash lights were quite dim. I accelerated over ~45mph and the dash lights went back to normal brightness. Ignoring this as normal function, due to the 100+ degree weather, air conditioning full blast and electronics I carried on. Battery was only ~3 months old; relatively new.
Over the next few weeks, the dash lights were gradually getting even more dim. I did some research and chalked it up as a faulty / failed alternator. I bought a refurbed Denso for ~180 from Partsgeek and installed it this past Sunday (9/24/16) early in the AM so I could be ready for Football in the afternoon. After installing and replacing the hardened / broken vacuum lines I broke, I took it for a spin; same problem. The dash lights were dim and now the idle was so low / rough, it was close to stalling.
After more frustration and research, I thought it would maybe be a faulty / dirty MAP or IAC. Got home from work, cleaned out the IAC ; it wasnt bad. Checked the MAP and cleaned connections; wasnt that bad. Test drive and same result, except now it stalled.
More research and read a few Billman posts. Checked all fuses and everything looked fine. Thought about the grounds being bad / dirty, so I disconnected the battery and moved the wires out of the way. The ground wire for the battery to body pretty much feel apart as I moved it out of the way.
Went to advanced bought a new ground, replaced, started car and took for a test drive. Car is running much smoother and the problems are gone. Could be running a little better with the additional actions I took, but Im sure the brittle wire replacement helped just a little.
So ~$180 fix vs ~$10 fix. Lesson learned, but at least the problem is resolved. Figured I would share the story in another member comes across the same problem.
I noticed one evening driving that my dash lights were quite dim. I accelerated over ~45mph and the dash lights went back to normal brightness. Ignoring this as normal function, due to the 100+ degree weather, air conditioning full blast and electronics I carried on. Battery was only ~3 months old; relatively new.
Over the next few weeks, the dash lights were gradually getting even more dim. I did some research and chalked it up as a faulty / failed alternator. I bought a refurbed Denso for ~180 from Partsgeek and installed it this past Sunday (9/24/16) early in the AM so I could be ready for Football in the afternoon. After installing and replacing the hardened / broken vacuum lines I broke, I took it for a spin; same problem. The dash lights were dim and now the idle was so low / rough, it was close to stalling.
After more frustration and research, I thought it would maybe be a faulty / dirty MAP or IAC. Got home from work, cleaned out the IAC ; it wasnt bad. Checked the MAP and cleaned connections; wasnt that bad. Test drive and same result, except now it stalled.
More research and read a few Billman posts. Checked all fuses and everything looked fine. Thought about the grounds being bad / dirty, so I disconnected the battery and moved the wires out of the way. The ground wire for the battery to body pretty much feel apart as I moved it out of the way.
Went to advanced bought a new ground, replaced, started car and took for a test drive. Car is running much smoother and the problems are gone. Could be running a little better with the additional actions I took, but Im sure the brittle wire replacement helped just a little.
So ~$180 fix vs ~$10 fix. Lesson learned, but at least the problem is resolved. Figured I would share the story in another member comes across the same problem.
Glad that worked out for you. I'm still struggling.
I've replaced the battery to body ground wire, and I'm on my second remanufactured alternator, and I still get flickering dash lights.
Apparently the rectifiers are rarely replaced when alternators are remanufactured. The alternator will past a standard function test (like you'd get at an autozone or mechanic), and keeps the battery charged, but the inconsistent current causes the flickers.
Before installing my second reman alternator, I removed the rectifier, and did a function test with a multimeter. It passed, while the rectifier from my first reman alternator failed. I installed the 2nd reman alternator in the car, and it worked fine for a few weeks before reverting back to flickers. Fortunately it has a one year warranty, but I'm getting tired of playing alternator roulette.
So, I'm torn. A reman alternator is only $120-180, but just a brand new rectifier on its own is $190, with no warranty or return backing it up.
I've replaced the battery to body ground wire, and I'm on my second remanufactured alternator, and I still get flickering dash lights.
Apparently the rectifiers are rarely replaced when alternators are remanufactured. The alternator will past a standard function test (like you'd get at an autozone or mechanic), and keeps the battery charged, but the inconsistent current causes the flickers.
Before installing my second reman alternator, I removed the rectifier, and did a function test with a multimeter. It passed, while the rectifier from my first reman alternator failed. I installed the 2nd reman alternator in the car, and it worked fine for a few weeks before reverting back to flickers. Fortunately it has a one year warranty, but I'm getting tired of playing alternator roulette.
So, I'm torn. A reman alternator is only $120-180, but just a brand new rectifier on its own is $190, with no warranty or return backing it up.
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